Powers Whiskey at the Irish Whiskey Academy

Towards the end of 2016 I was lucky enough to be invited to assist in judging a social media competition hosted by Powers Whiskey Northern Ireland. 

The "Whiskey Wisdom Distilled Challenge" focussed on bringing together bars from across Northern Ireland, through the power of social media, and have them complete a series of challenges that allowed them to showcase not only the Powers Whiskey brand, but also their own business.

The competition resulted in entries being posted on social media (mostly Twitter) and, through the creativity of the teams involved, we were treated to a range of entries that varied from bordering on the professional to the downright hilarious, and I mean that in a good way.

The competition tested the teams on their knowledge of the Powers brand and their ability to showcase Powers whiskey in a range of interesting scenarios and creative cocktails.

In the end, however, there could only be one winner and after a hard fought contest the team from The Bullitt Hotel, Belfast came out victorious.

The prize for the winning team was the chance to be treated to the full two day "Enthusiasts Package" at the exclusive Irish Whiskey Academy in Midleton Distillery, County Cork.

In a twist that I was not expecting, I too was to head down to the Irish Whiskey Academy to take part in the two day course with the winning team, not only as way of thanks for helping with the judging but to also take in the experience and bring it to you all through these words you are reading.

On 27th February I made my way to the National Bar, Belfast where I was to meet the winning team who would also become my fellow "Enthusiasts" for the days ahead.  The Bullitt team of Frankie, Alex and Conor were ready and waiting at The National and we were soon joined by Sarah from Dillon Bass and Joe Magowan, Powers very own Irish whiskey ambassador.

As we travelled the 250+ miles to Midleton Distillery we had plenty of time to get acquainted and discuss our thoughts on what lay ahead.  As I spoke with the Bullitt team it was clear that they each had a keen interest in finding out more about the Powers whiskey brand and the way in which it's whiskeys are created at the Midleton Distillery.

Some of the highlights mentioned, that the team were looking forward to, included the blending exercise and a visit to the Midleton archives.

The discussion continued and as a result of the conversation, and I expect a little excitement, the journey seemed to pass us by in no time and before we knew it we had arrived at our temporary home for the next two nights, the five star Castlemartyr Resort, County Cork.

I have to say though that staying in this exquisite hotel was not just a perk that came with this competition, as anyone who partakes in the "Enthusiasts Package" shall also get the chance to indulge in this fine retreat.

After a long, albeit enjoyable journey, we were swiftly checked into our rooms and allowed a short time to relax before dinner in the resort's Italian restaurant and, of course, a few Powers whiskey nightcaps.

The following morning we were up early, fed a fine breakfast and transferred the short distance to Midleton Distillery were we met our overall host for our visit Máire.  Once we were warmly welcomed we met our Academy host and tutor Ciarán O'Donovan.

Without any further ado we were off on our Irish Whiskey Academy experience which began with a comprehensive tour of the old distillery site.  As we walked around, taking in a sense of it's history, we were shown that the location of the Irish Whiskey Academy straddles the area between the old distillery and the current production area, as almost as if it is a "gateway between the old and new".

We continued onto to more modern buildings with a glimpse inside the ultra impressive micro distillery, where it seems that the team at Midleton are getting a chance to play at being Willy Wonka when it comes to producing whiskey. 

The micro distillery itself is made up of three beautiful stills and while no specific details were given away you certainly got a sense that the ethos is - if it can be done, then we are going to do it.

From here we were shown around an impressive display of the history of coopering and maturation, and you can really see how much it means to everyone at Midleton distillery to understand this precious whiskey resource and the effect it bestows upon the liquid over many years of maturation.  This led on perfectly to our next stop which was a small, but operational, warehouse containing 1000 casks of whiskey and, as with any whiskey warehouse, the smell was out of this world.

Before getting into the serious business of learning all about the Irish whiskey process we were introduced to Carol Quinn, the Midleton archivist, who, as I'm sure you can guess, showed us some treats from the Midleton archives.

This was were we got our first true specific insight into Powers whiskey, or should I say it's illustrious history.  I was amazed as Carol talked us through the Powers history, telling us stories of how it was once a brand revered the world over from anywhere from France to South Africa to India.

We also saw many photos and artefacts that highlighted exactly how exclusive this brand once was.

Everything was thought of to showcase this brand, from an enormous, 30ft tall, handmade wooden round tower, that was built in and around the late 1800's and was covered with bottles of Powers whiskey, to even the original Powers labels themselves that achieved their golden colour from ground down bronze, which was a very expensive process when this first began, also in the late 1800's.

When hearing the history of this iconic brand it is clear to see why those at Midleton want to keep it's name alive and, in turn, why it is now beginning to experience a renaissance as a brand that epitomises quality.

It was also a pleasure to hear the Bullitt team quiz Carol at length on anything that came to mind.  Coming from a background that would encompass all form of spirits you could tell that they were certainly impressed with the unique story that Powers whiskey had to tell.

From the archives we returned to the Irish Whiskey Academy itself and began our tuition at the hands of our learned teacher Ciaran.

Here we were taken, at great length, through every facet of the Irish whiskey making process.

To begin we looked at the raw materials used and how they are brought together in the brewing and fermentation process.  This included a chance to get back out on site and see for ourselves the huge storage areas where the grains are delivered to, along with a look inside the brewhouse and the "Barry Crockett" stillhouse.

Normally the "Barry Crockett" stillhouse would be off limits to any visitors but, as Midleton's newer "Garden" stillhouse was undergoing some work to install new stills, we were granted a one off opportunity. 

Here we got a chance to see Midleton distillation happening before our eyes and it's impressive to think that every bottle of Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Midleton VR, and so on, that you see on every shelf around the world, all originated from this stillhouse. 

This is of course due to the fact that any spirit distilled in the "Garden" stillhouse will take time to mature into actual whiskey that is ready to be included in one of these brands.

From here we were back to the Academy for an in depth discussion into pot distillation along with a chance to taste some very unique liquids. 

From memory, I believe it was explained that the normal tasting, at this stage of the Academy, would be made up from standard components of what may be Jameson but our host Ciaran went a little further to try and secure some components of what would be used to create those whiskeys we would see with the Powers label upon them.

If ever there was chance to really see what brings Powers whiskey together then this was it.

For this tasting we were given a sample of the following:

New make Pot Still
New make Grain
10yo Pot Still distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask
10yo Grain distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask
10yo Pot Still distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
8yo Pot Still distilled in 2008 and matured in a virgin oak cask

Not only did this give all involved a real insight into Powers whiskey but also how the different styles of whiskey and maturation can really change how the final bottle will turn out. 

As you can imagine, after that extensive tasting, we were treated to some much needed lunch before heading back to the classroom to learn about grain whiskey distillation and the maturation process, which covered all the (known) woods that are currently being used at the Midleton distillery.

With all the theory of Irish whiskey making covered it seemed about time to have some more samples and sure enough it was.  This time however we were heading downstairs to the tasting room to be taken through the Powers whiskey range itself.

This was now a chance to see how the components, that were tasted earlier, have been brought together to create the various styles of Powers that we now see in most bars.

For this tasting we had:

Powers "Gold Label"
Powers "12 year old"
Powers "Three Swallow"
Powers "Signature"
Powers "John's Lane"

For me, this was the first time I had ever had the chance to try the full range side by side and to say it was enjoyable would be an understatement.  Powers whiskey may have been overlooked for many a recent year but with this range of whiskeys behind them they can challenge any brand behind any bar.

Chatting to the team from Bullitt you could also see them developing a new found appreciation for the whiskey in front of them with each person having a very different and interesting view on the flavours they were finding within the spirit.

I dare say you may see a few new Powers cocktails coming very soon.

Now after the component tasting, and the Powers tasting, I'm sure you can guess what it was time for now....yes, that's right, more whiskey, only this time it wasn't in the classroom or in the opulent tasting room.

No, this time we were transported into the minor village that is made up by the Midleton warehouses and I'm not joking when I call it a minor village as there are around 45 warehouses on site storing a combined total of over 1.2 million casks of whiskey.

Yes, you heard that right.

For this final experience of day one we were taken into warehouse 39b and allowed to sample two whiskeys straight from the cask. 

For this tasting we were treated to:

Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1991 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask until 2005 when it was re-casked into another 1st fill bourbon cask
Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1998 and matured in a 1st fill sherry cask

Words can not express the excitement that is felt when, as a whiskey lover, you are allowed to remove and taste whiskey, straight from the cask, in the warehouse in which it has been maturing. 

I've experienced this on several different occasions and I can tell you it never gets old and all I can say is that if you ever get the chance to do this, anywhere in the world, jump at the opportunity.

I believe that, for the team from the Bullitt Hotel, this was a first for each of them and an experience they'll never forget.  This is a chance to taste Irish whiskey in it's purest form and they all certainly seemed to savour every last drop.

That concluded our first day at the Irish Whiskey Academy and it was time to head back to Castlemartyr for a couple of hours rest before the evening ahead.

As part of the "Enthusiasts Package" you are treated to a hosted evening in one of Cork's premium restaurants and that is what this evening had in store.  We were to be transferred to Ballymaloe House for what was to be a truly delicious dinner but not before an unexpected visit.

While waiting in the Castlemartyr bar we were joined by none other than Midleton's "Master Blender" Billy Leighton, who had taken time out of his own busy schedule to come along to say hello and have a quick chat with all involved, including the team from the Bullitt Hotel.

Following dinner we returned to Castlemartyr and as it was our last night we went about trying some of the more unusual whiskeys behind the bar which, in turn, led to some interesting purchases, or should I say some interesting methods of sale....those of you involved know what I mean.

After a slightly shorter nights sleep it was a true shame to have to leave The Castlemartyr Resort but there was unfinished business to attend to at the Academy.

We returned to our classroom to be thrown straight into our blending exercise, a module of the Academy that had been talked about from the moment we found out about it.

We were paired off and sent to our blending stations where we had three very different whiskeys at our disposal.  All necessary tools were provided and off we went creating the next Powers whiskey.

The whiskeys provided for blending were as follows:

12yo Pot Still matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
8yo Grain matured in a virgin oak cask
5yo Pot Still matured in a 2nd fill bourbon cask

For this exercise I was paired up with Frankie, from the Bullitt Hotel, and we set about creating two very different blends for sampling.

Naturally you got the chance to sample each component individually, but in the end we settled on a blend that was composed of 50% Grain, 30% Bourbon matured and 20% Sherry matured.

In honour of our time with Carol Quinn, in the Midleton archives, I named my blend "Round Tower", and you can expect it at a store near you very soon (I wish).

That more or less concluded our time at the Irish Whiskey Academy and as "Enthusiasts" we were presented with a certificate of the course we had completed, named "The Powers Academy", a bottle of Powers "John's Lane" and an exclusive Irish Whiskey Academy book.

There was, of course, one last treat in store for all involved as we were led the short walk from the Academy to the on site cooperage for a display from Midleton's fifth generation master cooper Ger Buckley and his apprentice Killian O'Mahony.

A display from Ger Buckley is without doubt an experience all in itself.  The skills that this man possesses take years to master, as does the knowledge needed to handle the historic tools at his disposal. 

But what was abundantly clear, from our demonstration, is that, in the hands of Killian O'Mahony, Midleton's barrels will be well looked after for years to come.

At this point we went back to the visitor centre to enjoy one last lunch, in the company of Ger and Killian, and afterwards we said our goodbyes to everyone, including our hosts Ciaran and Máire.

A quick look around the gift shop, where a few other bottles may have been purchased, and we were off on the long journey home. 

The journey home was without doubt a little more tiring than the trip down but again the conversation flowed about everything we had experienced over the previous 2 days at the Academy.

Thinking back over the whole trip what stood out for me was the aura that seems to surround Midleton distillery.

No matter where you are everyone seems to know everyone on a first name basis and you get a sense that, even though the whiskey is being produced on a large scale, this is still very much run like a family business.

This ties in perfectly with everything that was spoken about during our time with Carol Quinn and how Powers whiskey invested heavily in it's people which in turn created a sense of true pride towards the whiskey they were producing.

This, in my opinion, is exactly what makes the whiskey coming out of Midleton, and more specifically Powers, the quality that it is.  Each and every person, involved in the whiskey making process, has that pride in the job they do.

Thinking about this makes me feel very reassured to know that, as we see Irish whiskey growing at the rapid rate it is, Midleton distillery is there to serve as a guide, to other distilleries, on how to achieve everything they hope for.

Thinking now, more specifically, about Powers whiskey and I can honestly say that I have a far greater understanding of what makes this brand so great. 

It's history is almost unparalleled and we are now starting to see Midleton harness that rich history and turn it into a range of quality whiskeys that will soon have many people realising that this is a brand of whiskey that can sit amongst any in the world.

Lastly I would just like to touch upon what I feel this whole experience meant to Frankie, Alex and Conor from the Bullitt Hotel in Belfast.

I've no doubt that before this trip they were all well versed in most spirits, including whiskey, but as a result of this trip I also have no doubt that they now understand everything it takes to make great Irish whiskey.

They can now appreciate the time and effort it takes to bring everything together to make that bottle of Powers whiskey that they serve to customers.

They can now appreciate the delicate flavours that exist in each different bottle of Powers and how they could possibly develop those flavours into creating maybe a new delicious cocktail or just simply now having the knowledge to advise a customer that has maybe never tried a Powers whiskey before.

But, maybe most important of all, they can now also appreciate the history and pride that exists throughout the entire Powers range and this can, in turn, allow them to pass this knowledge on and, furthermore, allow the great story of Powers Irish Whiskey to be passed on for many more years to come.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

 

An Evening With Glendalough Distillery

It had been a while since I had been down, but last month I attended the Hudson Bar, Belfast to partake in one of their "Whiskey Club" evenings.

The reason for making the extra effort was due to the fact that this evening was being hosted by Glendalough Distillery and more specifically, one of their founders, Gary McLoughlin. 

This is a distillery that has been around for a good few years but, at the same time, one I had little experience of.

Labelling themselves as "Ireland's first craft distillery", Glendalough was formed in 2011 and are one of the many new start distilleries that have been popping up across the whole of Ireland in recent times.  The Distillery was founded by five gentlemen who, having all previously worked in the drinks industry, decided to finally take the plunge and stop working for others, to start working for themselves.

"Determined to carve their own way", the founders looked towards the medieval monastic settlements, where the craft of distillation was born, for inspiration.  Located just south of Dublin, Glendalough, Co. Wicklow, is the site of one such settlement which was first established, in the sixth century, by the Irish monk St. Kevin.

Today St. Kevin is instantly recognisable as the figure on the front of every bottle of Glendalough Whiskey, "serving as a symbol of the independent character and ancestral reverence at the heart of Ireland's first craft distillery."......How's that for some marketing spiel??

Getting back to the night in question though, Gary McLoughlin did offer a lighter note, as to the symbol of St. Kevin, by suggesting that he was to Glendalough what Mr. Jack Daniels, himself, is to the bourbon we all know very well.

Moving onto the drinks side of things we had a nice line up to work through.  On show for the evening was the "Double Barrel" Single Grain, 7yo Single Malt, 13yo Single Malt and their brand new Autumn Gin.

Starting off with the "Double Barrel" we are told that this single grain is made from a mash bill containing 90% Corn and 10% Malted Barley.  The distilled spirit was then matured for 3 and a half years in a 1st fill ex-bourbon cask, from Wild Turkey, and then given a 6 month finish in an ex-Oloroso cask before being bottled at 42% ABV.

As far as single grains go, it's pretty good.  Very smooth with the Oloroso influence very evident and a nice peppery, savoury note.  We are also informed that this "Double Barrel" also recently won a double gold at this years "San Francisco World Spirits Competition".

At time of writing Glendalough also have a triple barrelled single grain available on the U.S. market which has had the addition of Madeira maturation.  In time it may make it's way to these shores.

It's important to note that, at the moment, Glendalough have no aged stock of their own whiskey, so each whiskey is currently sourced from Cooley in Co. Louth.  What is also important though is that it doesn't necessarily matter so much where the spirit is originally from, but how it is handled and released by those who purchase it.

Glendalough have started distilling their own whiskey and only 3 weeks prior to this event they had produced their first pot still whiskey which was casked into ex Maker's Mark barrels.

At this point I'd also like to add that I'm a firm believer that Irish single grain has the opportunity to dominate this particular area of the whiskey market.  With the likes of Kilbeggan (formerly Greenore) and Teeling Single Grain already out there, and also having recently tasting a Midleton Single Grain (although admittedly this may never be released as a single grain), I honestly believe that Irish Single Grain knocks the socks off anything coming out of Scotland, where it is mostly used as blend filler.

Moving onto the 7yo Single Malt we are treated to an array of further marketing as to why the number "7" is so important but to move things along I shall just concentrate on the liquid in the bottle.  This is a double distilled single malt that has been aged in 1st fill ex-bourbon barrels from Wild Turkey before being bottled at 46% ABV.

On first taste it is, for me, undoubtedly Cooley in origin.  An lovely bourbon smoothness is accompanied by green apple, soft banana and soft grain.  As far as awards go this also was successful in San Francisco, picking up a silver medal.

Before moving onto the 13yo we get an insight as to what to expect in the near future with explanation that Glendalough currently have 10yo whiskey maturing in 4 different casks: Port, Rum, Madeira and Cabernet Sauvignon.

As for the 13yo the story behind it's origin is pretty unique.  Whilst in a bar, in New York City, a certain Irish rugby legend, Brian O'Driscoll, spotted Glendalough's Poitin and happened to get speaking to one of the founders.  After hearing their story he loved it so much that he wanted to get involved. 

At this time Glendalough were attempting to source 12yo whiskey from Cooley but after getting "B.O.D." on board they wanted to honour this by releasing a 13yo, which as any rugby fan knows was O'Driscoll's shirt number.  This resulted in much hurried phone calls to secure the odd numbered spirit but obviously they succeeded.

What they have now is an excellent Irish whiskey.  The 13yo is packed full of fresh fruits that range from fruit salad and lemon sherbet to white wine / grappa and more banana.  The bourbon influence isn't as noticeable, upon first nosing, but with time the creaminess comes along and rounds off a pretty tasty dram.

In San Francisco this 13yo conquered all by receiving a double gold and also the honour of being crowned "Best Irish Single Malt".  I'm not sure what other single malts it was up against but this is still an amazing accolade to have.

Upon speaking with Gary McLoughlin, I quizzed him on how they intend on developing their flavour profile as they move from sourcing outside whiskey to releasing their own, and his answer was honest.  They don't intend on trying to carry the specific flavours you find in their current range through into the future. 

They understand that it would be near on impossible to replicate this and therefore, there will be a time when we should see a definitive shift from their current ages to a style that has been completely developed by Glendalough and Glendalough alone.  It isn't clear when that will be but, when it is on the horizon my advice would be to snap up the current range as they will then soon become collectors items.

To finish off the evening we are treated to a taste of their brand new seasonal Autumn gin. 

Each season Glendalough work alongside local forager Geraldine Kavanagh to handpick the very best local botanicals, berries and fruit.  They then produce their gin in small batches and keep each season's output to no more than 3,000 bottles.  As is obvious, the ever changing Irish climate ensures that each season is completely unique and will also change from year to year.

As for this particular gin some of the fine ingredients used were nettle, rosehip, rosemary, Fraughan berries, crab apple, ground ivy, ginger and bitter almond.

Now, I'm no gin expert but after tasting this I may have to start partaking a little more.  This smelt absolutely divine and I can only imagine how much fun you could have with a couple of choice mixers.  Truly delicious and one to watch out for.

To finish off this update I'd like to think about this:

As Irish whiskey moves forward it will be interesting to see what works and what doesn't.

It is no doubt exciting that there are so many new distilleries opening up but it has been well documented that it is absolutely imperative that each new distillery understands that the Irish whiskey industry isn't some craze that you jump on the back of to make a "quick buck", but something that should be treasured and respected.

Irish whiskey has been through some tough times, and throughout those times a select few carried the mantle and kept the industry going.  They were also the ones to see Irish whiskey through it's dark days whilst managing to maintain the standards and quality that are revered the world over.

This is the challenge facing new distilleries.  They have to carry on in the same light as those select few and maintain the standards themselves.  If each new distillery can achieve this then Irish whiskey has a very bright future and in the case of Glendalough I am confident that, after this evening with them, they have what it takes to carry Irish whiskey on into the future.

Good luck lads and I look forward to seeing what you have in store for us whiskey lovers in the future.

Many thanks to Gary McLoughlin, and the Hudson Bar, Belfast, for a fantastic evening and if you happen to be in Belfast and would like to find any of the Glendalough bottles then head to "The Vineyard" on the Ormeau Road, they have the full range in stock.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

An Evening With Midleton Master Blender Billy Leighton

Earlier this year, I attended another wonderful event hosted by the Merchant Hotel in the centre of Belfast.  This was the second in their "By The Fire" whiskey events and welcomed Midleton's master blender Billy Leighton to take us through a range of whiskeys from the Midleton portfolio.

As with the previous event, with Colum Egan, the room was set and provided the perfect setting for the evening's festivities.

Tickets had sold out well in advance and the crowd was eagerly anticipating what we might be treated to, let's face it, these nights always have a wee surprise in store.

To get us in the mood we started off with a Jameson, Ginger & Lime, a drink that Jameson have tried hard to market and in fairness I think it's starting to take hold.  When out in the town I hear more and more people asking specifically for this and even at a recent leaving dinner, in Newtownards, the drink on offer was this very concoction.

It's a drink that works and is a perfect little taster for people that want to try something different and might bring more into the whiskey world.

As Billy Leighton introduced himself the mood was relaxed, and laid back, with no strict script and questions flowing back and forward.

The main line up for the evening was as follows: Powers "John's Lane", Redbreast 12yo, Redbreast 12yo cask strength, Redbreast 15yo and Redbreast 21yo.  Not bad at all for the £25 ticket price.

As the conversation carried on Billy acknowledged the perception of him working in a lab, bringing together the wondrous flavours we know and love, but he was very honest in comparing himself more to a stock controller.

It's an aspect of the whiskey world that is often overlooked.  With such a large company, he is responsible for managing the huge stock at Midleton, the ages and cask types, to ensure that age statements and quality are maintained year on year.

When you consider that Midleton has something like 45 warehouses on site, each containing millions of litres of spirit, you get an idea of the scale of the task that faces him.

He continued by highlighting how his task is very different from scotch blenders who would have a larger range to play with.  As all Midleton blends are produced on site it's very much in his hands to maintain the stanards throughout all the styles.

To really hit this home he described that, because the much revered Redbreast 21yo has some 28yo whiskey contained within it, he has to have the next 28 years worth of 21yo already maturing.  As part of his role he also has to forecast for 10 years, so now the overall forecast is 38 years, and as a sherry cask takes 5 years to make, and season, this is now increased to 43 years.....this has to be done for all brands and their relevant expressions!!

As if this wasn't enough he also would divide forecasts into optimistic, pessimistic and realistic as the market changes.  Unbelievable really, when you think about it.

As we sipped the 12yo we were  informed that it roughly contains 12 - 14yo whiskeys.

He touched on global brand reach by stating that they are starting to do well in Russia and South Africa, have been doing well in the USA for about 10-12 years and are quiet in China, at the moment, due to other brands.

As we moved onto the 15yo we were treated to more inside information.  He highlighted the make up of the whiskey by stating the key character is sherry matured with a mix of first fill & second fill casks and also stated there is some 19yo contained within.

He also informed us that this was first made, back in 2005, as a "one off" for La Maison du Whisky in Paris, France. 

Four years later marketing came along asking him to re-create this expression for general release.  As this was initially a one off, the components were not readily available, to make the same flavour profile, but it was re-created as best possible from an original bottle held at Midleton. 

Only now, is the 15yo, more or less, at the same level as it was for that '05 special release.

We finished with the 21yo, which I absolutely adore, and if the tasting had finished there then I would have went home very happy but......here came the surprises.

Five, yes FIVE, more samples that had been taken straight from the casks at Midleton.

They were as follows:

1 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1994 and matured in a first fill port cask
(Used in Jameson Rarest Vintage)
2 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1998 and matured in a first fill sherry cask
3 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1997 and matured in a first fill bourbon cask
4 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1996 and matured in an American virgin oak cask
(Small amount used in Jameson Gold)
5 - Grain whiskey distilled in 1990 and matured in a second fill bourbon cask

I could not believe my luck!!

He took us through each and the flavours were out of this world from, the almost meaty, port matured Pot Still to the exceptional single grain, which is quite simply the finest single grain I have ever tasted.

I quizzed him specifically on the single grain, and why there has never been a Midleton single grain released, and it seems that marketing just aren't that interested in getting it out there. 

I think they're mad in the head as this would put anything else on the market to shame.  I suppose it may be needed for more important blends but I'm sure if they got together they could get some maturing right now, even for some sort of a special release like the Mano a Lamh.

To finish off the evening we were treated to something truly special.  A chance, albeit slightly rushed, to see Billy Leighton at work.  It was at this moment he collected up one of each of the sample bottles and went round each table asking how much to use and, with that, he set about creating what I shall call the "By The Fire Blend".  

As we suggested measures he adjusted them accordingly to balance the flavours and we were then treated to a taste of this once in a lifetime blend. 

Amazing, just simply amazing.

As Billy brought the evening to an end he left us to enjoy what was left of the samples and my oh my did they disappear quickly.  Maybe even back to some people's houses....I'm saying nothing.

All in all an absolutely awesome evening and a great chance, yet again, to hear from the people who truly are at the heart of Irish whiskey.  It's not the bosses of Pernod Ricard, or previously Diageo, who fund our much love distilleries, but the people actually working there, day in day out, creating something special for everyone to enjoy.

With people like Billy Leighton at the heart of Irish whiskey, especially with the passion he has, I know we're in very safe hands as Irish whiskey continues to grow.

As for the "By The Fire" event, I know they were having a break over the summer months but I believe they are planning to start up again soon with a possible visit from Tullamore on the cards.

Lastly I would just like to thank the Merchant Hotel, and Billy Leighton, for a memorable evening and I look forward to more of the same.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

Greenore - 8 year old - Single Grain - Review

Irish single grain whiskey is not commonly heard of but for some time now the Cooley Distillery, Co. Louth, has been producing this style of spirit and originally had it on the shelves under the title of Greenore.

Named Greenore, after the port into which the grain, used in making the whiskey, was shipped, the two main expressions, I was always aware of, were the 8 year old and the 18 year old.  However after further research I see that there once was also a 6 year old, for the Swedish market, a 15 year old, which preceded the 18 year old and a 19 year old single cask, which was limited release of 300 bottles, released exclusively for the travel retail market and at the time was the oldest Irish single grain whiskey in the world.

With the recent changes in the ownership of Cooley, and the subsequent re-emergence of Kilbeggan as a major brand, the Greenore name is sadly no more and has now been re-named under the Kilbeggan brand.

As far as I am concerned they can call it whatever they like as long as they continue to maintain the high quality and reputation the Greenore name had been building for itself.

Before I go on to my notes it's only fair to mention that recently we have had another Irish single grain enter the market in the recent years and this is of course the Teeling single grain. 

Now while details of it shall be reserved for a future review I just want to say that it is also of very high quality and if the overall reputation of Irish single grain continues to grow in this manner it can only be brilliant for Irish whiskey as a whole.

For so long we have been known for our pot stills, our blends and our single malts and now that we can proudly add good quality single grain into the portfolio this completes our set, so to say, and allows us to compete across the board, across the globe.

Onto my notes:

Nose - Green apple, watermelon, ripe banana and fruit salad sweets.  Spirit is smooth and creamy and turns the fruits into apple tart with cream and banoffee pie.  Feels like great casks have been used in maturing this spirit as there is a distinct, but light, vanilla note and a slightly dry oak spice in the background.  A little touch of lemon citrus and a bit of rum and raisin ice cream finish the nose off nicely and towards the end a slight dustiness appears.

Palate - Light, gentle and slightly sour.  Crunchy green apples, more banana and the citrus is now more orange in nature.  Still undeniably smooth but the youthfulness is more apparent on the palate with a nice kick of spice which, now I think of it, is probably also partly due to the 93% corn used in the production process (the other 7% I believe is malted barley).  Still tropical and the oak comes at the end with some dryness and oak spice.

Finish - A little thin and swift but extremely fresh with dry spice.



Overall this is a fantastic whiskey, apart from the short finish.  I've never really let a finish cloud my judgement of a whiskey providing the nose and palate are of high quality and in this instance they are.  The whiskey has fantastic flavours throughout and if this is an example of what lies ahead for Irish single grain then we're all in for a treat.

What I would say though is that remains to be seen whether this quality will be maintained under the Kilbeggan name?  I honestly do not see why it wouldn't but you never know whenever new owners come into town with their new ideas.  Hopefully they'll understand the reputation this whiskey has built up and use it as a building block to grow from. 

Hopefully I shall have a sample of the Kilbeggan version soon and you can rest assured I'll be checking closely to make sure all that's changed is the name and only the name.

Lastly I'd just like to say thank you to David for the sample which was obtained as a swop.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

The Girvan Patent Still - Tweet Tasting - Review

Towards the end of August I was lucky enough to take part in another excellent tweet tasting which was, as usual, hosted by the wonderful Steve Rush from TheWhiskyWire.com.  

The whisky on show on this particular evening was that from Girvan Grain Distillery which is situated in South Ayrshire and is a distillery which I had no previous experience of.

Set up in 1963, in an unused munitions factory, Girvan Distillery was established by William Grant and Sons as a staple source of grain whisky for blending purposes.  It boasts a highly impressive annual production capacity of 15 million litres and also is the location for a new single malt distillery called Aisla Bay.  This, however, is not Girvan's first foray into the world of single malt as back in the 60's they expanded the distillery to produce a single malt named Ladyburn but this did not last long and eventually died off around 10 years later.

As you may or may not know, grain whisky is usually produced through the use of a "Coffey" still, also known as a continuous column still, and as a result the spirit that comes off these stills can be lighter, higher in ABV and usually less flavoursome to the single malt spirit that would be produced in a pot still.

This allows the grain whisky to become very useful in the blending process by smoothing out harsher single malts whilst allowing the blenders to achieve a good consistency in nailing down the flavour profile their brand has established.

On the other hand though, as this was my first time seriously sampling grain whisky, I was wondering how these would stand up against my favourite single malts.  Surely with a lighter, less flavoursome spirit, there'd need to be some seriously impressive maturation going on?

The first thing I have to say is that "The Girvan Patent Still", to give them their proper name, have got their marketing and presentation of product down to a fine art.  As you can see the samples arrived in elegant glass vials which themselves were contained within a fantastic presentation case.  This allowed one other taster to comment on how this almost felt scientific.  Certainly got my excitement levels up.

As for the samples, there were four on show.  New make, No.4 Apps, 25 year old and 30 year old.  All were bottled at 42% ABV, including the new make which was done to allow better comparison, and all were natural colour.  





New Make Spirit - Normally this would come off the still at 94% ABV and, as pointed out on the accompanying taste card, this obviously can not be called whisky until matured in oak for at least three years.  The card also suggests a fresh, fruity and vibrant spirit that is a perfect starting point to show how the flavours would develop over time.

Nose - At a lighter strength the spirit is deliciously fruity, prune juice, raisin, concentrated lemon juice, white wine vinegar and a sugary / sherbety feel to it which comes across as fruit pastilles.

Palate - Sweet and sour arrival with warm spice.  A touch watery and vodka-esque.  Lemon, apple and slightly herbal.

Finish - Great green fruit aftertaste with some more herbal notes (maybe basil strangely enough)

Whilst a great experience to try, and while I understand the reason behind bottling it at 42%, I felt that this would have benefited from being closer to 50%.  The watery, vodka-esque feel was a touch bland but there were some distinct delicious flavours in there.

No.4 Apps - In 1992 GIrvan installed a pioneering new still which they named "No.4 Apps", with "Apps" being a term for apparatus.  This new still, operated under a vacuum, permitting distillation at low temperatures.  This, according to the card, produces a pure, fruity and intense spirit.

Nose - Soft, creamy, green fruit, vanilla biscuits, perfumed and aromatic with more cereal notes.  When nosing this you get a sense that the spirit is working well with the effects of maturation.  After time the raisin returns along with a strange feel of a milk ice lolly.  Reminds me a lot of the Irish grain whiskey Greenore.

Palate - Fantastic warm fruit arrival with great strength.  Bags of oak spice.  Sweet, toffee, green apples and the lemon is now zingy and sharp.  Gorgeous spice throughout and towards the end some pepper and chilli which is not too harsh.

Finish - To be honest, slightly short, warm and drying with some more green fruit.

This for me was an excellent example of grain whisky.  Good spirit being married well with good casks and the balance wasn't too bad either.  My only complaint, and this does run throughout, is that the finish could be longer and I think this could also benefit from being bottled at a slightly higher strength.

25 Year Old - Priced around the £250 mark, this whisky has been matured in american oak and should show "notes of toffee, vanilla and caramelised fruits."

Nose - This is distinctly tropical, banana, raisin, stewed orange, red apple, light pepper with more toffee and very perfumed.  Huge sherry feel and great wood effect going on here.  Gets better and better becoming fudgy and unctuous which was perfectly described, by another taster, as sticky pudding.  After 10 minutes it's age starts to show through with a typical dustiness.

Palate - Spicy toffee apple, citrus lemon and orange, caramel, pepper, vanilla cream, ginger and more sweet, sugary sticky pudding.

Finish - Medium in length with after notes of the palate but again the finale just feels, well, a little flat.

The standout dram of the evening.  I don't know if it's worth £250 but it certainly won the battle of the four grain samples.

30 Year Old - Distilled in 1984, this dram is unique for having maize included in the mashbill.  It is lighter in colour than the 25 year old and as pointed out age is not necessarily a guarantee of darkness of colour.  A final read of the cards would highlight "notes of vanilla, zesty fruit and woody spiced finish".

Nose - Still in the tropics, banana, pineapple, menthol, mint and vanilla toffee.  Cereal and oats.  The raisin and prune is still hiding in there but the citrus has eased off compared to the 25 year old.  More light pepper and again no initial sense of age but this comes with time along with another sherried feel.

Palate - Raisins, allspice, clove, dark dried fruit and cinnamon.  Heat is less intense and eases for amazing juiciness.

Finish - Medium, warm and juicy.

Whilst being highly accomplished this just did not feel as good as the 25 year old and to nab this old liquid will set you back about £360.  The underlying strength issue is still here, as with all, but like I said, it is highly accomplished and worth trying.

All in all this was one amazing experience.  A great journey through the life of single grain whisky and a journey that can regularly be experienced through the likes of the tastings hosted by TheWhiskyWire.com.  I can not recommend enough to get yourselves out there and try any tastings you can, however they may be found.  

As for these drams I would have to go out there and say that while the 25 year old was my favourite I'd opt for the "No.4 Apps".  I put this down purely to value for money and the fine balance that this whisky displays.

To nearly finish off I'll take a short moment to highlight that I shall be back again, very soon, with my views on the Oban 14 year old, which I had the huge enjoyment to sample whilst recently in Paris and to finally finish off I'll give a huge thanks to Girvan Grain and Steve @ TheWhiskyWire.com for yet another fine tasting.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI