Redbreast "Dream Cask" - Review

On Saturday 20th May 2017 Redbreast Irish Whiskey treated 100 fans to a very special tasting to coincide with the celebration of World Whisky Day.

The tasting was a sample of single pot still Irish whiskey drawn from a cask chosen by Midleton master blender Billy Leighton as his "Dream Cask".

Prior to the tasting nothing was given away, even when the selected tasters received their tasting sets all they had to go on was an unmarked 100 ml bottle filled with the mysterious whiskey.  It was clear we would just have to wait for the event itself.

The method in which the tasting would be conducted would also be unique as Redbreast decided they would stream the tasting live via Facebook from warehouse A1 in the grounds of Midleton itself, thus making the event accessible to everyone across the globe, albeit without the magical whiskey.

Commenting prior to the event Billy Leighton explained the reason behind his selection by stating: “I’ve poured over our maturing casks at Midleton and have drawn a special expression of Redbreast that demonstrates the character of the family and reinforces single pot still whiskey as the quintessential style of whiskey from Ireland. I’m looking forward to leading the tasting with Dave and slowly revealing the secrets of this mysterious whiskey on Facebook LIVE – it promises to be unmissable experience, as my dream Redbreast cask will never be tasted like this again.” 

On the night in question I made sure to have my sample ready and laptop fully charged to take part in this event and at 7pm BST the Redbreast Facebook page sprang into life with the live stream being hosted by Billy Leighton and Dave McCabe.

As the stream got going we didn't have to wait too long to find out exactly what it was we would be tasting and the revelation was astounding to say the least.

What we had in our hands was a 31yo single pot still Irish whiskey that was distilled in October 1985.  It had spent 25 years in an ex-bourbon cask before being re-casked in 2011 into an ex-sherry cask.

The natural cask strength was 46.7% ABV and if you are really interested the cask number was 41207.

Excited would not even cover exactly what I was feeling as this was going to be the oldest Irish whiskey I had ever tasted since sampling some 28yo Redbreast at a tasting at Whiskey Live, Dublin a few years ago.

As I listened on intently it soon became clear that this sample of 31yo whiskey was essentially the same as that 28yo I had tried previously only with 3 years extra maturation under it's belt.

When Redbreast 21yo was first launched in 2014 it was known to contain whiskey of up to 28 years of age.  This 31yo sample was from the same batch that would have first been used to create the Redbreast 21yo.  I hope that explains things ok.

It was now time to delve into the whiskey and it did not disappoint.

Onto my notes:

Nose - Rich, deep and creamy with vanilla.  Gentle pot still pepper spice.  Red toffee apples with the red berry fruits still extremely vibrant.  Naturally with time it became darker with full Christmas cake flavours, raisins, fig rolls, stewed berries and a little hint of something tropical.  Stewed oranges were also present and with time a distinct note of ginger snap started to appear.

Palate - Just as rich as the nose yet deliciously smooth.  Ripe banana, blackcurrant jam and further pot still spice.  The liquid fills the mouth and brings a glorious lip smacking dryness but in no way have the casks overpowered the spirit.  You almost have to chew through this one.  With time some notes of dusty old leather backed books started to appear giving a true sense of the age.  Simply stunning.

Finish - Long and lingering with red apple, dark berry and delicious warming spices.

Overall, words can not accurately describe how good this whiskey is.  It truly is in a league of it's own.

The flavours come at you layer upon layer with each one playing it's own part and working in total harmony with the next.  It is a whiskey you would need a few months with before you could even begin to really get to know it.

Towards the end of the tasting a question was raised asking what would happen with the rest of the contents of the barrel that this sample had been drawn from and it was suggested to put pressure on the powers that be at Midleton to maybe get this released as a single cask release.

I can tell you one thing, if this ever gets released as a single cask bottling the price will be astronomical but it will also sell out in hours, if not minutes.

My advice to everyone is start saving now, hope the time comes that this is released as a single cask bottling and then get in line with your fingers crossed.

I would also like to touch on the tasting again and say that in my opinion this was a huge success.  The tasting was interactive and enjoyable and I certainly hope Redbreast continue to host these Facebook Live tastings, maybe next time they could stretch it out even longer to maybe an hour or so.

This is an excellent way for them to connect with fans all over the world and continue to raise the profile of Irish whiskey in a way that is fun, entertaining and engaging while also allowing people the rare opportunity to ask a Midleton master the question they've always wanted answered.

Lastly I would like to thank Redbreast for the chance to take part in this once in a lifetime tasting that I'll remember for many years to come.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

Powers Whiskey at the Irish Whiskey Academy

Towards the end of 2016 I was lucky enough to be invited to assist in judging a social media competition hosted by Powers Whiskey Northern Ireland. 

The "Whiskey Wisdom Distilled Challenge" focussed on bringing together bars from across Northern Ireland, through the power of social media, and have them complete a series of challenges that allowed them to showcase not only the Powers Whiskey brand, but also their own business.

The competition resulted in entries being posted on social media (mostly Twitter) and, through the creativity of the teams involved, we were treated to a range of entries that varied from bordering on the professional to the downright hilarious, and I mean that in a good way.

The competition tested the teams on their knowledge of the Powers brand and their ability to showcase Powers whiskey in a range of interesting scenarios and creative cocktails.

In the end, however, there could only be one winner and after a hard fought contest the team from The Bullitt Hotel, Belfast came out victorious.

The prize for the winning team was the chance to be treated to the full two day "Enthusiasts Package" at the exclusive Irish Whiskey Academy in Midleton Distillery, County Cork.

In a twist that I was not expecting, I too was to head down to the Irish Whiskey Academy to take part in the two day course with the winning team, not only as way of thanks for helping with the judging but to also take in the experience and bring it to you all through these words you are reading.

On 27th February I made my way to the National Bar, Belfast where I was to meet the winning team who would also become my fellow "Enthusiasts" for the days ahead.  The Bullitt team of Frankie, Alex and Conor were ready and waiting at The National and we were soon joined by Sarah from Dillon Bass and Joe Magowan, Powers very own Irish whiskey ambassador.

As we travelled the 250+ miles to Midleton Distillery we had plenty of time to get acquainted and discuss our thoughts on what lay ahead.  As I spoke with the Bullitt team it was clear that they each had a keen interest in finding out more about the Powers whiskey brand and the way in which it's whiskeys are created at the Midleton Distillery.

Some of the highlights mentioned, that the team were looking forward to, included the blending exercise and a visit to the Midleton archives.

The discussion continued and as a result of the conversation, and I expect a little excitement, the journey seemed to pass us by in no time and before we knew it we had arrived at our temporary home for the next two nights, the five star Castlemartyr Resort, County Cork.

I have to say though that staying in this exquisite hotel was not just a perk that came with this competition, as anyone who partakes in the "Enthusiasts Package" shall also get the chance to indulge in this fine retreat.

After a long, albeit enjoyable journey, we were swiftly checked into our rooms and allowed a short time to relax before dinner in the resort's Italian restaurant and, of course, a few Powers whiskey nightcaps.

The following morning we were up early, fed a fine breakfast and transferred the short distance to Midleton Distillery were we met our overall host for our visit Máire.  Once we were warmly welcomed we met our Academy host and tutor Ciarán O'Donovan.

Without any further ado we were off on our Irish Whiskey Academy experience which began with a comprehensive tour of the old distillery site.  As we walked around, taking in a sense of it's history, we were shown that the location of the Irish Whiskey Academy straddles the area between the old distillery and the current production area, as almost as if it is a "gateway between the old and new".

We continued onto to more modern buildings with a glimpse inside the ultra impressive micro distillery, where it seems that the team at Midleton are getting a chance to play at being Willy Wonka when it comes to producing whiskey. 

The micro distillery itself is made up of three beautiful stills and while no specific details were given away you certainly got a sense that the ethos is - if it can be done, then we are going to do it.

From here we were shown around an impressive display of the history of coopering and maturation, and you can really see how much it means to everyone at Midleton distillery to understand this precious whiskey resource and the effect it bestows upon the liquid over many years of maturation.  This led on perfectly to our next stop which was a small, but operational, warehouse containing 1000 casks of whiskey and, as with any whiskey warehouse, the smell was out of this world.

Before getting into the serious business of learning all about the Irish whiskey process we were introduced to Carol Quinn, the Midleton archivist, who, as I'm sure you can guess, showed us some treats from the Midleton archives.

This was were we got our first true specific insight into Powers whiskey, or should I say it's illustrious history.  I was amazed as Carol talked us through the Powers history, telling us stories of how it was once a brand revered the world over from anywhere from France to South Africa to India.

We also saw many photos and artefacts that highlighted exactly how exclusive this brand once was.

Everything was thought of to showcase this brand, from an enormous, 30ft tall, handmade wooden round tower, that was built in and around the late 1800's and was covered with bottles of Powers whiskey, to even the original Powers labels themselves that achieved their golden colour from ground down bronze, which was a very expensive process when this first began, also in the late 1800's.

When hearing the history of this iconic brand it is clear to see why those at Midleton want to keep it's name alive and, in turn, why it is now beginning to experience a renaissance as a brand that epitomises quality.

It was also a pleasure to hear the Bullitt team quiz Carol at length on anything that came to mind.  Coming from a background that would encompass all form of spirits you could tell that they were certainly impressed with the unique story that Powers whiskey had to tell.

From the archives we returned to the Irish Whiskey Academy itself and began our tuition at the hands of our learned teacher Ciaran.

Here we were taken, at great length, through every facet of the Irish whiskey making process.

To begin we looked at the raw materials used and how they are brought together in the brewing and fermentation process.  This included a chance to get back out on site and see for ourselves the huge storage areas where the grains are delivered to, along with a look inside the brewhouse and the "Barry Crockett" stillhouse.

Normally the "Barry Crockett" stillhouse would be off limits to any visitors but, as Midleton's newer "Garden" stillhouse was undergoing some work to install new stills, we were granted a one off opportunity. 

Here we got a chance to see Midleton distillation happening before our eyes and it's impressive to think that every bottle of Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Midleton VR, and so on, that you see on every shelf around the world, all originated from this stillhouse. 

This is of course due to the fact that any spirit distilled in the "Garden" stillhouse will take time to mature into actual whiskey that is ready to be included in one of these brands.

From here we were back to the Academy for an in depth discussion into pot distillation along with a chance to taste some very unique liquids. 

From memory, I believe it was explained that the normal tasting, at this stage of the Academy, would be made up from standard components of what may be Jameson but our host Ciaran went a little further to try and secure some components of what would be used to create those whiskeys we would see with the Powers label upon them.

If ever there was chance to really see what brings Powers whiskey together then this was it.

For this tasting we were given a sample of the following:

New make Pot Still
New make Grain
10yo Pot Still distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask
10yo Grain distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask
10yo Pot Still distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
8yo Pot Still distilled in 2008 and matured in a virgin oak cask

Not only did this give all involved a real insight into Powers whiskey but also how the different styles of whiskey and maturation can really change how the final bottle will turn out. 

As you can imagine, after that extensive tasting, we were treated to some much needed lunch before heading back to the classroom to learn about grain whiskey distillation and the maturation process, which covered all the (known) woods that are currently being used at the Midleton distillery.

With all the theory of Irish whiskey making covered it seemed about time to have some more samples and sure enough it was.  This time however we were heading downstairs to the tasting room to be taken through the Powers whiskey range itself.

This was now a chance to see how the components, that were tasted earlier, have been brought together to create the various styles of Powers that we now see in most bars.

For this tasting we had:

Powers "Gold Label"
Powers "12 year old"
Powers "Three Swallow"
Powers "Signature"
Powers "John's Lane"

For me, this was the first time I had ever had the chance to try the full range side by side and to say it was enjoyable would be an understatement.  Powers whiskey may have been overlooked for many a recent year but with this range of whiskeys behind them they can challenge any brand behind any bar.

Chatting to the team from Bullitt you could also see them developing a new found appreciation for the whiskey in front of them with each person having a very different and interesting view on the flavours they were finding within the spirit.

I dare say you may see a few new Powers cocktails coming very soon.

Now after the component tasting, and the Powers tasting, I'm sure you can guess what it was time for now....yes, that's right, more whiskey, only this time it wasn't in the classroom or in the opulent tasting room.

No, this time we were transported into the minor village that is made up by the Midleton warehouses and I'm not joking when I call it a minor village as there are around 45 warehouses on site storing a combined total of over 1.2 million casks of whiskey.

Yes, you heard that right.

For this final experience of day one we were taken into warehouse 39b and allowed to sample two whiskeys straight from the cask. 

For this tasting we were treated to:

Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1991 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask until 2005 when it was re-casked into another 1st fill bourbon cask
Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1998 and matured in a 1st fill sherry cask

Words can not express the excitement that is felt when, as a whiskey lover, you are allowed to remove and taste whiskey, straight from the cask, in the warehouse in which it has been maturing. 

I've experienced this on several different occasions and I can tell you it never gets old and all I can say is that if you ever get the chance to do this, anywhere in the world, jump at the opportunity.

I believe that, for the team from the Bullitt Hotel, this was a first for each of them and an experience they'll never forget.  This is a chance to taste Irish whiskey in it's purest form and they all certainly seemed to savour every last drop.

That concluded our first day at the Irish Whiskey Academy and it was time to head back to Castlemartyr for a couple of hours rest before the evening ahead.

As part of the "Enthusiasts Package" you are treated to a hosted evening in one of Cork's premium restaurants and that is what this evening had in store.  We were to be transferred to Ballymaloe House for what was to be a truly delicious dinner but not before an unexpected visit.

While waiting in the Castlemartyr bar we were joined by none other than Midleton's "Master Blender" Billy Leighton, who had taken time out of his own busy schedule to come along to say hello and have a quick chat with all involved, including the team from the Bullitt Hotel.

Following dinner we returned to Castlemartyr and as it was our last night we went about trying some of the more unusual whiskeys behind the bar which, in turn, led to some interesting purchases, or should I say some interesting methods of sale....those of you involved know what I mean.

After a slightly shorter nights sleep it was a true shame to have to leave The Castlemartyr Resort but there was unfinished business to attend to at the Academy.

We returned to our classroom to be thrown straight into our blending exercise, a module of the Academy that had been talked about from the moment we found out about it.

We were paired off and sent to our blending stations where we had three very different whiskeys at our disposal.  All necessary tools were provided and off we went creating the next Powers whiskey.

The whiskeys provided for blending were as follows:

12yo Pot Still matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
8yo Grain matured in a virgin oak cask
5yo Pot Still matured in a 2nd fill bourbon cask

For this exercise I was paired up with Frankie, from the Bullitt Hotel, and we set about creating two very different blends for sampling.

Naturally you got the chance to sample each component individually, but in the end we settled on a blend that was composed of 50% Grain, 30% Bourbon matured and 20% Sherry matured.

In honour of our time with Carol Quinn, in the Midleton archives, I named my blend "Round Tower", and you can expect it at a store near you very soon (I wish).

That more or less concluded our time at the Irish Whiskey Academy and as "Enthusiasts" we were presented with a certificate of the course we had completed, named "The Powers Academy", a bottle of Powers "John's Lane" and an exclusive Irish Whiskey Academy book.

There was, of course, one last treat in store for all involved as we were led the short walk from the Academy to the on site cooperage for a display from Midleton's fifth generation master cooper Ger Buckley and his apprentice Killian O'Mahony.

A display from Ger Buckley is without doubt an experience all in itself.  The skills that this man possesses take years to master, as does the knowledge needed to handle the historic tools at his disposal. 

But what was abundantly clear, from our demonstration, is that, in the hands of Killian O'Mahony, Midleton's barrels will be well looked after for years to come.

At this point we went back to the visitor centre to enjoy one last lunch, in the company of Ger and Killian, and afterwards we said our goodbyes to everyone, including our hosts Ciaran and Máire.

A quick look around the gift shop, where a few other bottles may have been purchased, and we were off on the long journey home. 

The journey home was without doubt a little more tiring than the trip down but again the conversation flowed about everything we had experienced over the previous 2 days at the Academy.

Thinking back over the whole trip what stood out for me was the aura that seems to surround Midleton distillery.

No matter where you are everyone seems to know everyone on a first name basis and you get a sense that, even though the whiskey is being produced on a large scale, this is still very much run like a family business.

This ties in perfectly with everything that was spoken about during our time with Carol Quinn and how Powers whiskey invested heavily in it's people which in turn created a sense of true pride towards the whiskey they were producing.

This, in my opinion, is exactly what makes the whiskey coming out of Midleton, and more specifically Powers, the quality that it is.  Each and every person, involved in the whiskey making process, has that pride in the job they do.

Thinking about this makes me feel very reassured to know that, as we see Irish whiskey growing at the rapid rate it is, Midleton distillery is there to serve as a guide, to other distilleries, on how to achieve everything they hope for.

Thinking now, more specifically, about Powers whiskey and I can honestly say that I have a far greater understanding of what makes this brand so great. 

It's history is almost unparalleled and we are now starting to see Midleton harness that rich history and turn it into a range of quality whiskeys that will soon have many people realising that this is a brand of whiskey that can sit amongst any in the world.

Lastly I would just like to touch upon what I feel this whole experience meant to Frankie, Alex and Conor from the Bullitt Hotel in Belfast.

I've no doubt that before this trip they were all well versed in most spirits, including whiskey, but as a result of this trip I also have no doubt that they now understand everything it takes to make great Irish whiskey.

They can now appreciate the time and effort it takes to bring everything together to make that bottle of Powers whiskey that they serve to customers.

They can now appreciate the delicate flavours that exist in each different bottle of Powers and how they could possibly develop those flavours into creating maybe a new delicious cocktail or just simply now having the knowledge to advise a customer that has maybe never tried a Powers whiskey before.

But, maybe most important of all, they can now also appreciate the history and pride that exists throughout the entire Powers range and this can, in turn, allow them to pass this knowledge on and, furthermore, allow the great story of Powers Irish Whiskey to be passed on for many more years to come.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

 

Midleton - Very Rare 2016 - Review

Time flies when you're having fun!!  It seems like only yesterday that I was sitting myself down to enjoy a sample of the Midleton Very Rare 2014, the first to be bottled under the watchful eye of Master Distiller Brian Nation.

Fast forward to the present day and we now have Brian's third release of the iconic Midleton Very Rare.

First launched in 1984 the Midleton Very Rare is a yearly release of 50 exceptional casks that have been handpicked by the Master Distiller and blended together to showcase all that the distillery has to offer.

Since taking over the role of Master Distiller I know that Brian Nation has already overseen many other new releases, across the whole Midleton portfolio, but with the Midleton Very Rare, being so revered the world over, it will be interesting to see if he is starting to make his mark on this famous whiskey.

Onto my notes:

Nose - Upon first pour I immediately pick up some vibrant orchard fruits with fresh green apple to the fore.  Once this settles down there's a gorgeous mix of pot still spices and cream.  The spice is prickly with a touch of ginger and pepper.  The creamy vanilla is deliciously smooth and binds the nose together.  The orchard fruits become slightly more stewed and combine with the grains to give a sense of apple crumble.  As it develops I now get some of the tropical notes I've noted in previous Very Rare releases with light banana / foam banana sweets.  A very classic Midleton nose.

Palate - Clean and crisp with green apples continuing from the nose.  Spicy pot still character also comes through and combines with the grain to play around the mouth.  Cask influence adds an extra dry spice whilst enhancing the vanilla notes.  Throughout the whiskey there is a underlying toffee sweetness but this is kept in check by the grain spirit which seems to be a major player in this whiskey.  With time a little stewed orange comes through and the experience becomes a lot richer.

Finish - Dry, spicy and very fruity.

Overall this is another excellent addition to the Very Rare range.  Thinking back to my previous experiences this 2016 release doesn't seem to have just as much citrus, as what I may have experienced before, but this seems to have been replaced with an fresh orchard element.

Whilst the sweetness is still easily found within this whiskey it feels like it has taken more of a back seat to allow the natural spirit to shine through.  This is applicable for both the pot still and grain elements with both combining well to hold the whiskey together.

For me this is the quintessential Irish whiskey showcasing the perfect blend of spirits to achieve something that is much more than the sum of it's parts.  I certainly get the sense that Brian Nation is making his mark on this whiskey and it's a taste journey that will develop brilliantly over the years.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

Redbreast - Lustau - Review

Towards the end of 2016 Midleton distillery, once again, flexed its muscles as we were all treated to another new release from those people behind Redbreast.

Over the last few years, compared to the other established Irish distilleries, namely Bushmills and Cooley, we have been treated to a number of new offerings coming out of Midleton distillery and, as I'm sure you may have noticed, the Redbreast name has been popping frequently up amongst these new expressions.

In 2013 we had the Redbreast 21 year old, in 2015 we had the limited edition Redbreast "Mano a Lámh" and earlier this year we had a Celtic Whiskey Shop exclusive in the form of a Redbreast 1999 single cask.

Each of these had their own unique selling point yet people may have thought the 21 year old to be a little bit too expensive for their wallets, the "Mano a Lámh" a little bit too limited to get hold of and the 1999 single cask a little bit too much of a combination of the previous two.

Moving forward to present day and now Redbreast have released a new, permanent expression that will be widely available to all.

Redbreast "Lustau" is a single pot still Irish whiskey that has been finished in hand selected, first-fill sherry butts, with the aim of celebrating the iconic sherry influence found throughout the Redbreast range.

Matured initially in a combination of ex-Bourbon and ex-Oloroso sherry casks, for about 9-12 years, Redbreast "Lustau" has been wholly finished for one year in sherry butts from the Spanish sherry house "Bodegas Lustau" and has come about a result of the long standing relationship between the bodega and the distillery in Midleton.

Redbreast "Lusatu" has been bottled at 46% ABV, without chill-filtration and at a recommended price point of £55.

Now while you may be thinking this is a little steep for a NAS whiskey, I'd like to firstly say that you may be able to get this a little cheaper if you shop around and, secondly, I'd like to reiterate the mention of an initial maturation of 9-12 years. 

I feel that the only reason they are leaving an age statement off the bottle is that they may need to dip a little younger, or maybe even a little older, in the future, but what can be guaranteed is that the team behind the release will always aim to ensure that the quality shall remain the same.

Onto my notes:

Nose - Interesting mix of older sherry cask and fresh red fruits.  The slightly older notes have a nice, deep, dried fruit complexity with Christmas cake and winter spices.  The fresher notes, however, keep the heavier feel in check with touches of strawberry jam, and stewed strawberries with cream.  I know the stewed element may not seem so fresh but when up against the likes of deep raisin you see where I'm coming from.  The pot still distillate is evident and seems like it's gently wrapped in a red berry coating.  The spice comes through showing that the spirit has not lost its way and the younger notes give the overall mouth-feel a nice edge to it.  A little touch of oaky vanilla lies beneath the strawberries and cream element and I have to say it's all very inviting.

Palate - Again a fantastic mix with the fresher elements appearing first.  Dark berry coulis and jam is followed by the rich fruit cake of the longer sherry maturation.  Spicy black pepper, that's almost dry red chilli in nature, reminds you of the style of whiskey you're enjoying and it brings the whole glass together.  Delicious.

Finish - As the alcohol dies down you are left with juicy red fruits and a lasting kick of dry oak spice.  This all leaves you with the suggestion to pour another glass.

Overall this is another fantastic addition to the Redbreast range.  It may not be as smooth as the 12 year old, but it's smooth enough.  It may not be as heavy hitting as the "Mano a Lámh", but it hits all the right notes whilst keeping them restrained through careful finishing in a fresh sherry cask. 

I can easily see this becoming a firm favourite within the Redbreast range.

As with the Powers "Three Swallow", it's great to see that Midleton are able to move effortlessly into the release of NAS expressions without reducing the quality we've grown to love.  Long may these releases continue.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

An Evening With Midleton Master Blender Billy Leighton

Earlier this year, I attended another wonderful event hosted by the Merchant Hotel in the centre of Belfast.  This was the second in their "By The Fire" whiskey events and welcomed Midleton's master blender Billy Leighton to take us through a range of whiskeys from the Midleton portfolio.

As with the previous event, with Colum Egan, the room was set and provided the perfect setting for the evening's festivities.

Tickets had sold out well in advance and the crowd was eagerly anticipating what we might be treated to, let's face it, these nights always have a wee surprise in store.

To get us in the mood we started off with a Jameson, Ginger & Lime, a drink that Jameson have tried hard to market and in fairness I think it's starting to take hold.  When out in the town I hear more and more people asking specifically for this and even at a recent leaving dinner, in Newtownards, the drink on offer was this very concoction.

It's a drink that works and is a perfect little taster for people that want to try something different and might bring more into the whiskey world.

As Billy Leighton introduced himself the mood was relaxed, and laid back, with no strict script and questions flowing back and forward.

The main line up for the evening was as follows: Powers "John's Lane", Redbreast 12yo, Redbreast 12yo cask strength, Redbreast 15yo and Redbreast 21yo.  Not bad at all for the £25 ticket price.

As the conversation carried on Billy acknowledged the perception of him working in a lab, bringing together the wondrous flavours we know and love, but he was very honest in comparing himself more to a stock controller.

It's an aspect of the whiskey world that is often overlooked.  With such a large company, he is responsible for managing the huge stock at Midleton, the ages and cask types, to ensure that age statements and quality are maintained year on year.

When you consider that Midleton has something like 45 warehouses on site, each containing millions of litres of spirit, you get an idea of the scale of the task that faces him.

He continued by highlighting how his task is very different from scotch blenders who would have a larger range to play with.  As all Midleton blends are produced on site it's very much in his hands to maintain the stanards throughout all the styles.

To really hit this home he described that, because the much revered Redbreast 21yo has some 28yo whiskey contained within it, he has to have the next 28 years worth of 21yo already maturing.  As part of his role he also has to forecast for 10 years, so now the overall forecast is 38 years, and as a sherry cask takes 5 years to make, and season, this is now increased to 43 years.....this has to be done for all brands and their relevant expressions!!

As if this wasn't enough he also would divide forecasts into optimistic, pessimistic and realistic as the market changes.  Unbelievable really, when you think about it.

As we sipped the 12yo we were  informed that it roughly contains 12 - 14yo whiskeys.

He touched on global brand reach by stating that they are starting to do well in Russia and South Africa, have been doing well in the USA for about 10-12 years and are quiet in China, at the moment, due to other brands.

As we moved onto the 15yo we were treated to more inside information.  He highlighted the make up of the whiskey by stating the key character is sherry matured with a mix of first fill & second fill casks and also stated there is some 19yo contained within.

He also informed us that this was first made, back in 2005, as a "one off" for La Maison du Whisky in Paris, France. 

Four years later marketing came along asking him to re-create this expression for general release.  As this was initially a one off, the components were not readily available, to make the same flavour profile, but it was re-created as best possible from an original bottle held at Midleton. 

Only now, is the 15yo, more or less, at the same level as it was for that '05 special release.

We finished with the 21yo, which I absolutely adore, and if the tasting had finished there then I would have went home very happy but......here came the surprises.

Five, yes FIVE, more samples that had been taken straight from the casks at Midleton.

They were as follows:

1 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1994 and matured in a first fill port cask
(Used in Jameson Rarest Vintage)
2 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1998 and matured in a first fill sherry cask
3 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1997 and matured in a first fill bourbon cask
4 - Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1996 and matured in an American virgin oak cask
(Small amount used in Jameson Gold)
5 - Grain whiskey distilled in 1990 and matured in a second fill bourbon cask

I could not believe my luck!!

He took us through each and the flavours were out of this world from, the almost meaty, port matured Pot Still to the exceptional single grain, which is quite simply the finest single grain I have ever tasted.

I quizzed him specifically on the single grain, and why there has never been a Midleton single grain released, and it seems that marketing just aren't that interested in getting it out there. 

I think they're mad in the head as this would put anything else on the market to shame.  I suppose it may be needed for more important blends but I'm sure if they got together they could get some maturing right now, even for some sort of a special release like the Mano a Lamh.

To finish off the evening we were treated to something truly special.  A chance, albeit slightly rushed, to see Billy Leighton at work.  It was at this moment he collected up one of each of the sample bottles and went round each table asking how much to use and, with that, he set about creating what I shall call the "By The Fire Blend".  

As we suggested measures he adjusted them accordingly to balance the flavours and we were then treated to a taste of this once in a lifetime blend. 

Amazing, just simply amazing.

As Billy brought the evening to an end he left us to enjoy what was left of the samples and my oh my did they disappear quickly.  Maybe even back to some people's houses....I'm saying nothing.

All in all an absolutely awesome evening and a great chance, yet again, to hear from the people who truly are at the heart of Irish whiskey.  It's not the bosses of Pernod Ricard, or previously Diageo, who fund our much love distilleries, but the people actually working there, day in day out, creating something special for everyone to enjoy.

With people like Billy Leighton at the heart of Irish whiskey, especially with the passion he has, I know we're in very safe hands as Irish whiskey continues to grow.

As for the "By The Fire" event, I know they were having a break over the summer months but I believe they are planning to start up again soon with a possible visit from Tullamore on the cards.

Lastly I would just like to thank the Merchant Hotel, and Billy Leighton, for a memorable evening and I look forward to more of the same.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

Powers - Three Swallow Release - Review

Another month and another new release from Irish Distillers.

Last night, as part of the Celtic Whiskey Club, I took part in a tweet tasting sampling the latest release under the Powers label - "Three Swallow Release.

Powers "Three Swallow Release" continues Irish Distillers' investment in the Powers brand and specifically Single Pot Still Powers.  This is aimed to fit into their range just below the Powers "Signature Release" and is intended to offer whiskey drinkers an alternative to the more expensive pot still whiskeys with age statements.

Due to be released in the next few weeks, Powers "Three Swallow Release" has been bottled at 40% ABV and without chill filtration.  For maturation they have selected a range of ex-bourbon barrels and a small portion of Oloroso sherry casks.

The name allegedly comes from the fact that a mouthful of Powers should never be swallowed in one go, but in three separate gulps.

Onto my notes:

Nose - Initially fresh and fruity.  Orchard fruits, green apple and there's a nice youthfulness to it.  Light grain and even lighter vanilla.  The casks are not overpowering this dram.  As it develops in the glass a smooth creaminess comes through from the bourbon casks.  We move on to tropical banana / banoffee pie with some sherry notes coming through too.  Ripe pear with a little spice in the form of black pepper.  This nose is really inviting and there's a great balance of cask influence with the sherry notes noticeable but coated by the bourbon elements.

Palate - Smooth with huge amounts of cream.  Red apple, ripe banana, a little butterscotch and a vanilla hit of crème brûlée.  While it would be nice to see this at 43% / 46%, it still retains a nice spirit kick at 40%.  With time a little dusty wood appears from the sherry casks and again the balance is lovely.

Finish - Medium with a nice dryness of wood spice, red apple and, at last, a little red fruit.

Overall I'm very impressed with this whiskey.  It displays a brilliant balance of cask influence and also carries through great fruit flavours from the pot still distillate.  In comparison to another recent Irish Distillers release, the Green Spot "Château Léoville Barton", I feel this wins hands down as it's an honest dram that doesn't try too hard to be anything other than what it is....a well made, well matured, Irish whiskey. 

While still not on general release (it's due to be released in the coming weeks) it remains to be seen what price point this whiskey appears at, but providing it is priced well, which it should be, then I would have no hesitation in recommending this as an excellent "go-to" pot still whiskey to have in your collection.

More of the same please Irish Distillers!!

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

PS - Excuse the slightly blurry image as a little jiggery pokery was required, given the fact no official photos have been released yet

Green Spot - Château Léoville Barton - Review

Irish whiskey fans have already had a year to remember with Irish Distillers treating us to a few new releases including the Redbreast "Mano a Lámh" and the Midleton "Dair Ghaelach".  But it is their latest release that I shall be looking at this time around.

Green Spot "Château Léoville Barton" is the first ever Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey to be finished in Bordeaux wine casks.

Set in the heart of Bordeaux, one of the most revered wine making regions in the world, Léoville Barton is a grand cru Château renowned for producing world class wine.  Léoville Barton is overseen today by Anthony and Lilian Barton who are direct descendants of Thomas Barton, a "Wine Geese" winemaker who founded a wine merchant company in 1725 after migrating from his native Ireland.

For those of you not familiar with the term "Wine Geese" this refers to winemakers who migrated from Ireland in the 16th, 17th, and 18th centuries to establish wineries in countries such as France, Spain, Australia and the USA.

Green Spot, as I'm sure you may already know, can trace it's roots back to Dublin based wine merchants, Mitchell & Son, who matured, bottled and sold the original Green Spot under bond.  

Established in 1805, Mitchell & Son aged whiskeys, bought from John Jameson's Bow Street distillery in Dublin, in their own casks up until 1968.

It is this distinct connection between the two histories of Léoville Barton and Green Spot, that makes Anthony Barton feel very privileged to be able to contribute to the merging of these industries to produce something unique and "exceptional".  

With regards the whiskey itself, it has initially been matured in a traditional mix of ex-Oloroso sherry, new bourbon and ex-bourbon barrels.  The whiskeys were then transferred into the ex-Bordeaux wine casks for between 12 and 24 months, imparting "distinctive floral flavours of varying intensity" and "resulting in a perfectly balanced whiskey".

It has been bottled at 46% ABV, with no added colour, and no chill filtering, and has been available from June at a RRP of roughly £40.

Onto my notes:

Nose - Initially a savoury butter note, some "green" notes that I would noramlly get with Redbreast 15yo and a distinct dusty note lurks in the background.  As it opens in the glass it becomes much sweeter, almost candy like, with foam banana sweets, a little green apple and the butter now becomes quite fudge like with the sweetness.  There's not a massive amount of red fruit going on but some gentle strawberry is here.  Not much spice either.  Feels very smooth from the bourbon barrels with a creamy sweetness to match.  With this nose it feels like the bourbon barrels are definitely the dominant force but with time a wine note does come through in the form of grappa.

Palate - Nice balance of the sweet flavours with a now notable dry spice coming from the European oak.  More green apples and vanilla cream.  Red berries are more prominent here with a spicy cracked black pepper undertone.  Mouth feel is a little on the thin side but I stress only a little.  On the whole the "perfectly balanced" comment is definitely noticeable on the palate.

Finish - Nice length with the red fruits really starting to show along with a nice lingering dryness from the cask.  In opposition to the nose, the finish feels like the wine casks are the dominant force.

Overall this is a good whiskey, heading in the direction, but just falling short, of the very good.  It is well made and the wine casks have imparted a subtle note onto the spirit.

As with most reviews I usually get most notes down on the first taste and go over the notes with a second glass, to add any further flavours, and with the second glass this was improving with the fruit flavours becoming more complex.

That was until I added the tiniest drop of water which did more damage than good.  In my opinion this needs no water whatsoever and is best left as presented.

Would I recommend this whiskey? Yes.  Would I buy this at the price it's meant to be sold at? Yes.  Would it win any awards in the mythical awards ceremony in my head?  On this taste, probably not.

I'm left to ponder this against another release mentioned earlier, the Redbreast "Mano a Lámh", as they are both NAS Pot Stills, at a similar price point, and to be honest I'd probably opt for the Redbreast.  (Incidentally a review of this shall be up soon)

That said though, do not let that put you off.  As with anything this is obviously only my opinion and the only way to get a personal experience is to get out there and try it yourself.  If you love the normal Green Spot then this just may be the one for you.

Until next time,

Sláinte

SI

PS A huge thanks Richmond Towers Communications for the sample and press release.

The "Spirit" of Jameson - 3 Days in Midleton & Dublin

Jameson Welcome Pack

Back in 1780, when the original Old Jameson Distillery was founded by John Jameson on Bow Street, Dublin, men and women, working in the distillery, enjoyed the best wages, and working conditions, within Dublin, and on top of this they also enjoyed company with John Jameson himself.

John Jameson believed that sharing his profits, time and spirit with each worker made them loyal and, in turn, made a better whiskey.   

Further to this, if you look closely at a bottle of Jameson you will notice that each bottle has two-barrel men balancing the label as a tribute to the men and women who produce the whiskey. 

A family spirit continued in a truer fashion throughout the 1800's as John Jameson II and, his son, John Jameson III transformed the Jameson Irish Whiskey brand into one of the largest in the world. 

It is this sense of family / community spirit that I want to touch upon throughout this piece. 

I was somewhat taken aback when I received an email back in January inviting me to be part of a Jameson media trip over the St Patrick's Day weekend but without second thought I naturally jumped at the chance and on 14th March I made my way to Belfast City airport for the slightly unnatural journey to Cork via London. 

Upon arrival into Cork we were greeted by the welcome party and promptly transferred to our accommodation for the next two nights - The Castlemartyr Resort.

Consisting of a 17th century manor house, sitting adjacent to the ruins of a 800 year old castle, and surrounded by immaculate gardens and walkways, Castlemartyr is truly decadent.  Walking around the original buildings gives you a sense that you are an extra on the set of Downton Abbey and the whole style of the resort felt far more in keeping with the era in which Jameson was born way back in 1780. 

The mood was tranquil and idyllic and allowed myself, and no doubt the 50 or so others who had been assembled for this trip, time to contemplate what this trip was all about and what Jameson were trying to capture by bringing us all together.  Maybe they were trying to re-create another type of family to spread the word of the "spirit" of Jameson.

As we moved into the first evening whiskey flowed and discussion was everywhere.  The mix of accents, that accompanied the almost never-ending sound of new introductions, created a wonderful soundtrack to what was quickly becoming a enjoyably relaxing atmosphere.

The night wore on into the small hours and as it did I found myself in great conversation with fellow whiskey writers Jake Mountain, of Master of Malt and Tiger and Turbo, from the Edinburgh whisky blog.  We were also accompanied by Midleton's master blender Billy Leighton.

We discussed all things Irish, in terms of whiskey, and sipped some fine examples that are coming out of the Midleton distillery at the moment.  I ended on the Paddy Centenary 7yo Single Pot Still, which I wasn't fussed on when I first sampled it last year but found it to be a lot more agreeable this time around.

We talked about the future of Irish whiskey and the importance for all new distilleries to ensure a quality is maintained to back up the fine reputation Irish whiskey has been gaining in recent times. 

There was also discussion on how Jameson / Midleton are more than happy to lend a helping hand, where they can, to get new distilleries up and running.  Not in a sense of "we're the big boys in this game and you'll listen to us" but more of a "we're all in this together, for the long haul, so let's make sure we do things right".

As I retired for the evening I was on a definite buzz and seriously looking forward to the morning where we'd be whisked away to Midleton for a full day around the distillery.

The trip to Midleton was a whirlwind of a tour.  Unfortunately hampered by the clock the Jameson team did their upmost to get us all round in time.

We began with a quick background to the Irish whiskey making process and a quick look around some of the original buildings that are now nothing more than a museum and a snapshot into a world long gone.  This was then followed with a quick introduction to the Irish Whiskey academy which was ably delivered by David McCabe.

First opened in 2013 the Irish Whiskey Academy is a state of the art training facility that hosts courses that focus on the production and heritage of Irish whiskey produced at Midleton.

From what little I observed it is clear that the delivery is professional and informative with fantastic use of the learning space to maximise interaction.  To take part in the academy properly you may have to fork out a pretty penny but if you have the money, and the interest, then I would sincerely recommend considering this package to further your whiskey knowledge.

Looking back through my notes from the weekend I have noted at this point that everyone at the distillery appears to know each other on first name terms.  For a distillery of such size to retain this community feeling is fantastic and, in my opinion, echoes the original style of John Jameson to make everyone feel a part of the process and, in turn, produce a better quality product. 

Onwards and into the brand new "Garden Stillhouse" where we were greeted by master distiller Brian Nation.  As with all the major figures, Brian Nation spoke with a great sense of pride and honesty about his feelings towards Midleton and the whiskey it produces.  At no time did you ever feel that those involved were simply "going through the motions" to talk to us. 

I've no doubt that they speak to hundreds upon hundreds of people every year, probably about the exact same topics, but each and every one of them speaks with a passion that clearly burns deep inside.

We moved quickly onto one of the 45 warehouses, that are based on site at Midleton, and wound up at warehouse 39B to be precise.  Here we were introduced to master of maturation Kevin O'Gorman and this is where we began to get a few more facts and figures.

During 2015 Midleton expect to receive around 150,000 casks from America alone.  On top of this Kevin put to bed the rumour of oak shortage by saying that this was simply not true.  He acknowledged that there were issues with loggers and poor weather but that these have been resolved.

Further insight was given into the type of casks used at Midleton: Madeira, Marsala, Irish oak, Port, Bourbon and Sherry and, with regards barrel management, we were also informed that Midleton do not rotate casks in their warehouses and would use a bourbon barrel 3 times before forwarding it on to the rum industry.

Then, from a whiskey drinking point of view, came the highlight of the trip...tasting straight from the cask(s).

First up was a 24yo pot still which was distilled in 1991 and had been resting in a second fill bourbon cask until 2005 before being moved into a first fill cask.  While we didn't have time to sit down and truly get into the whiskey I can say that this was extravagant in ways I've rarely tasted before.  Naturally huge on pot still spice but smooth, thick and oily.  Delicious stuff.

Second was a 17yo pot still, distilled in 1998 and matured wholly in a first fill Oloroso cask.  This was, quite simply, like nothing I've ever tried before.  To call this a "sherry bomb" would be an understatement as we went clean past dark fruit and straight into dark deep meaty notes.  Unbelievable!!!  Can I have a bottle please??

Jameson Family Tasting

Floating on the crest of a whiskey dream we stopped for a quick bite of lunch before moving onto our second tasting of whiskey for the day.  This time it was a Jameson Family Tasting with Billy Leighton.  On show we had the Original, Black Barrel and Gold Reserve.  All excellent in their own right when you take into consideration the area of the whiskey market they're aimed at.

As BIlly Leighton spoke he echoed terms I've heard before in the importance of forecasting and managing stock to ensure quality is maintained for years to come.  We also got a little insider knowledge with conformation that Jameson original contains, amongst other styles, some 8yo sherry matured pot still whiskey.

Last stop on the tour was the cooperage and a display from someone who I consider to be a living legend in the whiskey world.

Ger Buckley is a 5th generation master cooper and still uses instruments and tools that were passed down to him through the ages.  When you watch his brief display you can't help but marvel at the true skill he possesses.  His work is an art form and one which is not learned quickly.  Even though the work is tough and contained within, arguably, the coldest building at the distillery, you can tell that Ger is completely at one with the work he carries out. 



Cooperage Display with Ger Buckley

Again, you get snippets of information that Ger is only too happy to pass on what knowledge he can to any other distilleries wishing to train a cooper to keep an eye on their precious casks and again it come across as an Irish Whiskey community looking out for each other rather than an unwanted task bestowed upon him from above.  

With people such as Brian, Billy, Ger and Kevin at the helm of Ireland's largest distillery surely nothing can go wrong.  I certainly do not think so and if the Irish whiskey community can come together, and fight towards a common purpose to get Irish whiskey back to where it belongs, then Irish whiskey has a long and very bright future ahead of it. 

On that positive note we moved back to our hotel to prepare for our final night in Midleton and for our last Midleton meal we were taken to a local restaurant Sage.

Sage restaurant is unique in their 12mile ethos.  As obvious as it sounds they pride themselves in sourcing the vast majority of their produce within 12 miles of the restaurant.  It is this sort of provenance and terroir that resonates hugely within the whiskey industry and maybe the very reason this restaurant was selected by Jameson??

After a fine traditional Irish music session in a local pub we returned to the hotel bar and again spoke at length with Billy Leighton and also Ger Buckley.

It was while speaking with Ger that he talked briefly about the original IDL alliance with Bushmills and the friendships that were built over time and even agreed to the notion of being part of a Irish whiskey family.

As this second evening came to a close I wondered how the Dublin side of the trip would contrast with what we had experienced over the past two days.  One thing was for sure...I was ready to find out.

As we travelled the somewhat tedious, but necessary, journey from Midleton to Dublin I further contemplated the aforementioned contrast.  Undoubtedly we were heading back to "where it all began" for Jameson but a modern day Dublin is a far cry from a 1780 Dublin.

As we moved closer to the traditional, spiritual home, of Jameson there was an obvious upward change in pace.  The tranquil surroundings of Midleton were long gone and we were now deep into the heart of one of the most vibrant cities in Europe.

How times have changed, if you had no knowledge of Irish whiskey, and no knowledge of the Old Jameson Distillery tourist centre, you'd be certain that Midleton was the traditional, spiritual, home of Jameson and we had been moved up to Dublin for the sole purpose of the St Patrick's Day party.

We were further thrust into modern day Dublin with a fantastic walking tour hosted by Le Cool Dublin.  Le Cool Dublin's focus is on the modern day, lesser known, workings of this wonderful city and just before the tour, where they took us around the back streets to take in street art, pop up shops and even a secret supper club, we were treated to a short acoustic session from local musician Richie Egan and a short talk from artist Steve Simpson, the award winning illustrator behind the St Patrick's Day limited edition Jameson bottle design.

Now into it's 5th year the 2015 Jameson St Patrick's Day bottle set out to capture the soul and warmth of the city that first welcomed John Jameson in 1780. 

Encapsulating a heart, the label artwork is a mix of landmarks, local slang and a map of roads to represent the lifeblood of the city: the people and their passion for Dublin.  
                      
The bottle pays tribute to the special relationship between Jameson and Dublin with Jameson stating that "Ireland’s capital is our spiritual home; something Steve has captured perfectly by including the phrase: "Wherever I roam, it's Dublin my heart calls home""

To end the tour we arrived at a seemingly closed butcher's shop.  Set on a busy Dublin street the butcher's shop appeared desolate and uninviting.  Completely missing the reference to John Jameson & Sons, on the frosted front door, we entered the empty store and wondered what exactly was going on.  All was then revealed by one of the "butchers". 

The building we were in was, in fact, one of Jameson's private venues for hosting clients and as the "butcher" opened the freezer door we were invited inside to discover a rickety wooden staircase leading down to a perfect recreation of a speakeasy.

This was marketing done to the nth degree and no stone was left unturned with regards to detail.

In the cosy confines of the speakeasy we were introduced to Jameson's consultant mixologist Oisin Davis.  He was here to take us through some classic Irish cocktails and the two we were served up were completely delicious.


Oisin Davis taking us through a classic cocktail

One was a complete Irish cocktail made up of Jameson whiskey, wild elderflower cordial, rhubarb sherbet and dry Irish cider.  The second was named "The Tipperary" and consisted of equal measures of Jameson, Chartreuse and Vermouth which were served with a garnish of rosemary and a green olive.  Who knew Irish cocktails could be so good?

As the tour came to an end all that was left was the live concert being held that evening.  This was a chance to slightly let the hair down, and have a good time, but it was still clear that there was a focus on the local with the line up being the very finest of up and coming Irish bands.

St Patrick's Day Live Event

The experience of Dublin was a far cry from Midleton but what was clear is that while Jameson are aware of who they are, where they come from and the traditions and values they hold dear, they are also fully aware of the need to embrace the future.

By endorsing great local music, new exciting art, modern day mixology and the living culture of modern day Dublin they are reaching out to a consumer that used to think of whiskey as old men, sitting by a fire, smoking on a pipe and expecting their wives to have their dinner ready for them.

Now while the sexism is hopefully no longer present I've no doubt that there is still a strong amount of consumers that will see their whiskey as having to be traditional and unwavering in the face of modern day demands.

The skill that Jameson, and other companies, have to find is how to blend the modern with the traditional. 

Some companies have struggled recently and this has been noted in failed advertising campaigns, and failed marketing strategies, but having spent 3 days with Jameson I'm openly confident in that Jameson can make the transition and bring a new whiskey drinker to the party without alienating the fans they've already amassed.

Who knows exactly what the future may hold for Irish whiskey but with Jameson leading the way I'm happy with where it's going.

A huge thanks must be given to the following:

Everyone at Jameson / Midleton including the PR teams and staff for organising everything to perfection, including food, accommodation, tours and transfers
Chris, Jason, Jake, Lucy and Louise for the awesome craic and lastly to James for looking after us all so well throughout the weekend.

I would also like to highlight that the trip was paid for in full by Jameson.


Until next time,

Sláinte

SI