Towards the end of 2016 I was lucky enough to be invited to assist in judging a social media competition hosted by Powers Whiskey Northern Ireland.
The "Whiskey Wisdom Distilled Challenge" focussed on bringing together bars from across Northern Ireland, through the power of social media, and have them complete a series of challenges that allowed them to showcase not only the Powers Whiskey brand, but also their own business.
The competition resulted in entries being posted on social media (mostly Twitter) and, through the creativity of the teams involved, we were treated to a range of entries that varied from bordering on the professional to the downright hilarious, and I mean that in a good way.
The competition tested the teams on their knowledge of the Powers brand and their ability to showcase Powers whiskey in a range of interesting scenarios and creative cocktails.
In the end, however, there could only be one winner and after a hard fought contest the team from The Bullitt Hotel, Belfast came out victorious.
The prize for the winning team was the chance to be treated to the full two day "Enthusiasts Package" at the exclusive Irish Whiskey Academy in Midleton Distillery, County Cork.
In a twist that I was not expecting, I too was to head down to the Irish Whiskey Academy to take part in the two day course with the winning team, not only as way of thanks for helping with the judging but to also take in the experience and bring it to you all through these words you are reading.
On 27th February I made my way to the National Bar, Belfast where I was to meet the winning team who would also become my fellow "Enthusiasts" for the days ahead. The Bullitt team of Frankie, Alex and Conor were ready and waiting at The National and we were soon joined by Sarah from Dillon Bass and Joe Magowan, Powers very own Irish whiskey ambassador.
As we travelled the 250+ miles to Midleton Distillery we had plenty of time to get acquainted and discuss our thoughts on what lay ahead. As I spoke with the Bullitt team it was clear that they each had a keen interest in finding out more about the Powers whiskey brand and the way in which it's whiskeys are created at the Midleton Distillery.
Some of the highlights mentioned, that the team were looking forward to, included the blending exercise and a visit to the Midleton archives.
The discussion continued and as a result of the conversation, and I expect a little excitement, the journey seemed to pass us by in no time and before we knew it we had arrived at our temporary home for the next two nights, the five star Castlemartyr Resort, County Cork.
I have to say though that staying in this exquisite hotel was not just a perk that came with this competition, as anyone who partakes in the "Enthusiasts Package" shall also get the chance to indulge in this fine retreat.
After a long, albeit enjoyable journey, we were swiftly checked into our rooms and allowed a short time to relax before dinner in the resort's Italian restaurant and, of course, a few Powers whiskey nightcaps.
The following morning we were up early, fed a fine breakfast and transferred the short distance to Midleton Distillery were we met our overall host for our visit Máire. Once we were warmly welcomed we met our Academy host and tutor Ciarán O'Donovan.
Without any further ado we were off on our Irish Whiskey Academy experience which began with a comprehensive tour of the old distillery site. As we walked around, taking in a sense of it's history, we were shown that the location of the Irish Whiskey Academy straddles the area between the old distillery and the current production area, as almost as if it is a "gateway between the old and new".
We continued onto to more modern buildings with a glimpse inside the ultra impressive micro distillery, where it seems that the team at Midleton are getting a chance to play at being Willy Wonka when it comes to producing whiskey.
The micro distillery itself is made up of three beautiful stills and while no specific details were given away you certainly got a sense that the ethos is - if it can be done, then we are going to do it.
From here we were shown around an impressive display of the history of coopering and maturation, and you can really see how much it means to everyone at Midleton distillery to understand this precious whiskey resource and the effect it bestows upon the liquid over many years of maturation. This led on perfectly to our next stop which was a small, but operational, warehouse containing 1000 casks of whiskey and, as with any whiskey warehouse, the smell was out of this world.
Before getting into the serious business of learning all about the Irish whiskey process we were introduced to Carol Quinn, the Midleton archivist, who, as I'm sure you can guess, showed us some treats from the Midleton archives.
This was were we got our first true specific insight into Powers whiskey, or should I say it's illustrious history. I was amazed as Carol talked us through the Powers history, telling us stories of how it was once a brand revered the world over from anywhere from France to South Africa to India.
We also saw many photos and artefacts that highlighted exactly how exclusive this brand once was.
Everything was thought of to showcase this brand, from an enormous, 30ft tall, handmade wooden round tower, that was built in and around the late 1800's and was covered with bottles of Powers whiskey, to even the original Powers labels themselves that achieved their golden colour from ground down bronze, which was a very expensive process when this first began, also in the late 1800's.
When hearing the history of this iconic brand it is clear to see why those at Midleton want to keep it's name alive and, in turn, why it is now beginning to experience a renaissance as a brand that epitomises quality.
It was also a pleasure to hear the Bullitt team quiz Carol at length on anything that came to mind. Coming from a background that would encompass all form of spirits you could tell that they were certainly impressed with the unique story that Powers whiskey had to tell.
From the archives we returned to the Irish Whiskey Academy itself and began our tuition at the hands of our learned teacher Ciaran.
Here we were taken, at great length, through every facet of the Irish whiskey making process.
To begin we looked at the raw materials used and how they are brought together in the brewing and fermentation process. This included a chance to get back out on site and see for ourselves the huge storage areas where the grains are delivered to, along with a look inside the brewhouse and the "Barry Crockett" stillhouse.
Normally the "Barry Crockett" stillhouse would be off limits to any visitors but, as Midleton's newer "Garden" stillhouse was undergoing some work to install new stills, we were granted a one off opportunity.
Here we got a chance to see Midleton distillation happening before our eyes and it's impressive to think that every bottle of Jameson, Powers, Redbreast, Midleton VR, and so on, that you see on every shelf around the world, all originated from this stillhouse.
This is of course due to the fact that any spirit distilled in the "Garden" stillhouse will take time to mature into actual whiskey that is ready to be included in one of these brands.
From here we were back to the Academy for an in depth discussion into pot distillation along with a chance to taste some very unique liquids.
From memory, I believe it was explained that the normal tasting, at this stage of the Academy, would be made up from standard components of what may be Jameson but our host Ciaran went a little further to try and secure some components of what would be used to create those whiskeys we would see with the Powers label upon them.
If ever there was chance to really see what brings Powers whiskey together then this was it.
For this tasting we were given a sample of the following:
New make Pot Still
New make Grain
10yo Pot Still distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask
10yo Grain distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask
10yo Pot Still distilled in 2006 and matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
8yo Pot Still distilled in 2008 and matured in a virgin oak cask
Not only did this give all involved a real insight into Powers whiskey but also how the different styles of whiskey and maturation can really change how the final bottle will turn out.
As you can imagine, after that extensive tasting, we were treated to some much needed lunch before heading back to the classroom to learn about grain whiskey distillation and the maturation process, which covered all the (known) woods that are currently being used at the Midleton distillery.
With all the theory of Irish whiskey making covered it seemed about time to have some more samples and sure enough it was. This time however we were heading downstairs to the tasting room to be taken through the Powers whiskey range itself.
This was now a chance to see how the components, that were tasted earlier, have been brought together to create the various styles of Powers that we now see in most bars.
For this tasting we had:
Powers "Gold Label"
Powers "12 year old"
Powers "Three Swallow"
Powers "Signature"
Powers "John's Lane"
For me, this was the first time I had ever had the chance to try the full range side by side and to say it was enjoyable would be an understatement. Powers whiskey may have been overlooked for many a recent year but with this range of whiskeys behind them they can challenge any brand behind any bar.
Chatting to the team from Bullitt you could also see them developing a new found appreciation for the whiskey in front of them with each person having a very different and interesting view on the flavours they were finding within the spirit.
I dare say you may see a few new Powers cocktails coming very soon.
Now after the component tasting, and the Powers tasting, I'm sure you can guess what it was time for now....yes, that's right, more whiskey, only this time it wasn't in the classroom or in the opulent tasting room.
No, this time we were transported into the minor village that is made up by the Midleton warehouses and I'm not joking when I call it a minor village as there are around 45 warehouses on site storing a combined total of over 1.2 million casks of whiskey.
Yes, you heard that right.
For this final experience of day one we were taken into warehouse 39b and allowed to sample two whiskeys straight from the cask.
For this tasting we were treated to:
Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1991 and matured in a 1st fill bourbon cask until 2005 when it was re-casked into another 1st fill bourbon cask
Pot Still whiskey distilled in 1998 and matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
Words can not express the excitement that is felt when, as a whiskey lover, you are allowed to remove and taste whiskey, straight from the cask, in the warehouse in which it has been maturing.
I've experienced this on several different occasions and I can tell you it never gets old and all I can say is that if you ever get the chance to do this, anywhere in the world, jump at the opportunity.
I believe that, for the team from the Bullitt Hotel, this was a first for each of them and an experience they'll never forget. This is a chance to taste Irish whiskey in it's purest form and they all certainly seemed to savour every last drop.
That concluded our first day at the Irish Whiskey Academy and it was time to head back to Castlemartyr for a couple of hours rest before the evening ahead.
As part of the "Enthusiasts Package" you are treated to a hosted evening in one of Cork's premium restaurants and that is what this evening had in store. We were to be transferred to Ballymaloe House for what was to be a truly delicious dinner but not before an unexpected visit.
While waiting in the Castlemartyr bar we were joined by none other than Midleton's "Master Blender" Billy Leighton, who had taken time out of his own busy schedule to come along to say hello and have a quick chat with all involved, including the team from the Bullitt Hotel.
Following dinner we returned to Castlemartyr and as it was our last night we went about trying some of the more unusual whiskeys behind the bar which, in turn, led to some interesting purchases, or should I say some interesting methods of sale....those of you involved know what I mean.
After a slightly shorter nights sleep it was a true shame to have to leave The Castlemartyr Resort but there was unfinished business to attend to at the Academy.
We returned to our classroom to be thrown straight into our blending exercise, a module of the Academy that had been talked about from the moment we found out about it.
We were paired off and sent to our blending stations where we had three very different whiskeys at our disposal. All necessary tools were provided and off we went creating the next Powers whiskey.
The whiskeys provided for blending were as follows:
12yo Pot Still matured in a 1st fill sherry cask
8yo Grain matured in a virgin oak cask
5yo Pot Still matured in a 2nd fill bourbon cask
For this exercise I was paired up with Frankie, from the Bullitt Hotel, and we set about creating two very different blends for sampling.
Naturally you got the chance to sample each component individually, but in the end we settled on a blend that was composed of 50% Grain, 30% Bourbon matured and 20% Sherry matured.
In honour of our time with Carol Quinn, in the Midleton archives, I named my blend "Round Tower", and you can expect it at a store near you very soon (I wish).
That more or less concluded our time at the Irish Whiskey Academy and as "Enthusiasts" we were presented with a certificate of the course we had completed, named "The Powers Academy", a bottle of Powers "John's Lane" and an exclusive Irish Whiskey Academy book.
There was, of course, one last treat in store for all involved as we were led the short walk from the Academy to the on site cooperage for a display from Midleton's fifth generation master cooper Ger Buckley and his apprentice Killian O'Mahony.
A display from Ger Buckley is without doubt an experience all in itself. The skills that this man possesses take years to master, as does the knowledge needed to handle the historic tools at his disposal.
But what was abundantly clear, from our demonstration, is that, in the hands of Killian O'Mahony, Midleton's barrels will be well looked after for years to come.
At this point we went back to the visitor centre to enjoy one last lunch, in the company of Ger and Killian, and afterwards we said our goodbyes to everyone, including our hosts Ciaran and Máire.
A quick look around the gift shop, where a few other bottles may have been purchased, and we were off on the long journey home.
The journey home was without doubt a little more tiring than the trip down but again the conversation flowed about everything we had experienced over the previous 2 days at the Academy.
Thinking back over the whole trip what stood out for me was the aura that seems to surround Midleton distillery.
No matter where you are everyone seems to know everyone on a first name basis and you get a sense that, even though the whiskey is being produced on a large scale, this is still very much run like a family business.
This ties in perfectly with everything that was spoken about during our time with Carol Quinn and how Powers whiskey invested heavily in it's people which in turn created a sense of true pride towards the whiskey they were producing.
This, in my opinion, is exactly what makes the whiskey coming out of Midleton, and more specifically Powers, the quality that it is. Each and every person, involved in the whiskey making process, has that pride in the job they do.
Thinking about this makes me feel very reassured to know that, as we see Irish whiskey growing at the rapid rate it is, Midleton distillery is there to serve as a guide, to other distilleries, on how to achieve everything they hope for.
Thinking now, more specifically, about Powers whiskey and I can honestly say that I have a far greater understanding of what makes this brand so great.
It's history is almost unparalleled and we are now starting to see Midleton harness that rich history and turn it into a range of quality whiskeys that will soon have many people realising that this is a brand of whiskey that can sit amongst any in the world.
Lastly I would just like to touch upon what I feel this whole experience meant to Frankie, Alex and Conor from the Bullitt Hotel in Belfast.
I've no doubt that before this trip they were all well versed in most spirits, including whiskey, but as a result of this trip I also have no doubt that they now understand everything it takes to make great Irish whiskey.
They can now appreciate the time and effort it takes to bring everything together to make that bottle of Powers whiskey that they serve to customers.
They can now appreciate the delicate flavours that exist in each different bottle of Powers and how they could possibly develop those flavours into creating maybe a new delicious cocktail or just simply now having the knowledge to advise a customer that has maybe never tried a Powers whiskey before.
But, maybe most important of all, they can now also appreciate the history and pride that exists throughout the entire Powers range and this can, in turn, allow them to pass this knowledge on and, furthermore, allow the great story of Powers Irish Whiskey to be passed on for many more years to come.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
For years Irish whiskey has been relying exclusively on three main distilleries to produce a range of spirits to sell the world over and help build the now rejuvenated reputation of Irish whiskey. These distilleries are obviously Midleton, Bushmills and Cooley.
In recent times though we have seen a new wave of Irish distilleries appearing on the scene, all with their own ambition to start to diversify the range of Irish Whiskey available to the general public. One of these distilleries is Dingle.
Situated in the South West of Ireland, on the "Wild Atlantic Way", Dingle Distillery was created in 2012. Using their three gorgeous pot stills, the first spirit to be distilled in Ireland, outside the big three of Midleton, Bushmills and Cooley, ran from their stills back in November 2012.
Reading through their website, you can see that a key point in their whiskey making process is the design of their stills. They deliberately opted for spirit stills that would create extra reflux during the distilling process, allowing them to create a finer spirit to be filled into their ready waiting casks.
Their small, but "artisan", set up only allows them to create enough spirit to fill around two casks per day, so in their own words they understand they may never be a global megabrand, but having visited the distillery myself I can tell you that their passion, and will to succeed, is no less than any large distillery you would find anywhere on the planet.
With the main stills running, they set about creating single malt and pure pot still whiskey, and while waiting for these spirits to mature they also released their own brand of gin and vodka, which I'm sure many of you have already seen in a few bars, or off licences, around Ireland.
Now when it comes to maturing your own whiskey, a lot of people would have different views on how and when your first release should arrive. Some may say that you should wait for at least 5 - 6 years, allowing the cask to mellow your spirit, before allowing the public to form any opinion about what you are producing but Dingle kicked that idea firmly into touch by releasing their "Batch No.1" in late 2016, when the whiskey would have been around a very late 3 years old.
Some may ponder if a much needed injection of funds was the driving force behind such an early release but, having tasted "Batch No1" myself, I would say it's nothing more than a solid vote of confidence behind the spirit and whiskey they are producing in Dingle.
The first release of "Batch No.1" was a triple distilled single malt and it arrived in two forms, one of which was bottled at a healthy 46.5% ABV while the other was a much bolder cask strength version.
Needless to say, demand for both versions was phenomenal and most retailers saw their stock disappear before they could believe, but I now believe that a second release of "Batch No.1" is back on the shelves.
On a recent trip to Dublin I happened to pop into the whiskey shop attached to The Temple Bar itself. Inside the store they had a nice selection of whiskeys along with many open bottles if you wished to purchase a measure. As I'm sure you can guess I quickly spotted a 46.5% ABV bottle of the Dingle Single Malt "Batch No.1".
I've waited a long time to sample any official Irish whiskey, other than that of the big three, so naturally I purchased a glass and set about jotting down some tasting notes.
Now before I move onto my notes I'd like to point out, if it even needs to be said, that this is obviously very young whiskey and only an indication of where the distillery is at now and where it is headed in years to come.
Onto my notes:
Nose - Undeniably young with that peppery, new make, clove rock coming right through the spirit. Once you let it settle a while you pick up lovely notes of citrus with lemon biscuits seeming to dominate. The citrus is also represented by some light candied orange peel and a malted sweetness comes through also. Now for the "Dingle" effect which is something I haven't really experienced in an Irish whiskey to date. Running throughout the whiskey is a deliciously rich, salted butter undertone. The salt note, I can only presume, has obviously come from that gorgeous North Atlantic air sweeping off the coast where Dingle is situated. This is really good for such a young age.
Palate - Clean, crisp arrival that leads to more of the sweet malt and touches of pepper. The citrus also continues along with the obvious bite of youthful new make. At 46.5% ABV I was hoping for a much thicker coating around the mouth but the creamy butter element is still here to bring a little richness to the experience.
Finish - Crisp with lemon, apple and warming spices.
Overall this has really impressed me. Without doubt this is a young whiskey but it is already starting to display a tasty richness in the spirit and is, in my opinion, already starting to take on some coastal elements from the maturation process.
This, as a first release, is one to look out for and try for yourself. I honestly don't think Dingle Distillery could have asked for more to come out of this whiskey.
You can clearly see that their commitment to producing quality whiskey is there in the glass and, for me, this is a whiskey that is only going to get better, and better over time.
They will obviously be restricted to do this, but I hope they can bring out some form of release year on year so that we can all see exactly how well this delicious spirit is progressing.
It has always been a concern, of every lover of Irish whiskey, to see if all these new distilleries could actually walk the walk after talking the talk, but if you can manage to get a glass of Dingle Single Malt in your hand you can taste for yourself that Dingle are firmly on two feet and already walking in the right direction.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
Time flies when you're having fun!! It seems like only yesterday that I was sitting myself down to enjoy a sample of the Midleton Very Rare 2014, the first to be bottled under the watchful eye of Master Distiller Brian Nation.
Fast forward to the present day and we now have Brian's third release of the iconic Midleton Very Rare.
First launched in 1984 the Midleton Very Rare is a yearly release of 50 exceptional casks that have been handpicked by the Master Distiller and blended together to showcase all that the distillery has to offer.
Since taking over the role of Master Distiller I know that Brian Nation has already overseen many other new releases, across the whole Midleton portfolio, but with the Midleton Very Rare, being so revered the world over, it will be interesting to see if he is starting to make his mark on this famous whiskey.
Onto my notes:
Nose - Upon first pour I immediately pick up some vibrant orchard fruits with fresh green apple to the fore. Once this settles down there's a gorgeous mix of pot still spices and cream. The spice is prickly with a touch of ginger and pepper. The creamy vanilla is deliciously smooth and binds the nose together. The orchard fruits become slightly more stewed and combine with the grains to give a sense of apple crumble. As it develops I now get some of the tropical notes I've noted in previous Very Rare releases with light banana / foam banana sweets. A very classic Midleton nose.
Palate - Clean and crisp with green apples continuing from the nose. Spicy pot still character also comes through and combines with the grain to play around the mouth. Cask influence adds an extra dry spice whilst enhancing the vanilla notes. Throughout the whiskey there is a underlying toffee sweetness but this is kept in check by the grain spirit which seems to be a major player in this whiskey. With time a little stewed orange comes through and the experience becomes a lot richer.
Finish - Dry, spicy and very fruity.
Overall this is another excellent addition to the Very Rare range. Thinking back to my previous experiences this 2016 release doesn't seem to have just as much citrus, as what I may have experienced before, but this seems to have been replaced with an fresh orchard element.
Whilst the sweetness is still easily found within this whiskey it feels like it has taken more of a back seat to allow the natural spirit to shine through. This is applicable for both the pot still and grain elements with both combining well to hold the whiskey together.
For me this is the quintessential Irish whiskey showcasing the perfect blend of spirits to achieve something that is much more than the sum of it's parts. I certainly get the sense that Brian Nation is making his mark on this whiskey and it's a taste journey that will develop brilliantly over the years.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
"Until recently the only place you could find a bottle of Three Crowns was at auction. Now, we’re reviving this great whiskey to bring its flavour to a new generation."
Bold words indeed, but these are the words that greet you on the Echlinville webpage dedicated to the upcoming re-launch of this once revered Dunville's brand.
Since 2013, when they received the first Northern Irish distillers licence in around 125 years, Echlinville Distillery has been going from strength to strength with their new distillery / visitors centre and the introduction of some fine whiskey and gin to local market.
This has been further backed up with their PX finished 10 year old single malt being awarded "Best Irish Single Malt (12 years and under)" at the recent Irish Whiskey Awards.
Exciting times certainly lie ahead and we won't have to wait too long to enjoy what they have to offer with the upcoming launch of Dunville's "Three Crowns".
As Shane Braniff, founder of Echlinville Distillery, proudly states on their website - "It is one of the founding goals of our new distillery to bring Dunville's whiskey back to the world."
The original "Three Crowns" was introduced way back in 1830's and lasted around 100 years before being discontinued. Many bottles are still in circulation and the original style of the whiskey was similar to Dunville's "VR" with the "Three Crowns" using more sherry casks for the maturation.
Fast forward to the present day and what "Three Crowns" delivers this time around is a fine blend of malt and grain whiskeys.
Echlinville are very kind in letting us in on some of the detail by stating that the whiskey is made up with 4 year old grain, 10 year old malt and 15 year old malt finished in Oloroso casks.
The whiskey has then been bottled at 46% ABV, which I'm sure you will agree is a pleasant surprise for a blended whiskey.
Thinking about the original style of "Three Crowns", I've no doubt that the use of the Oloroso finished malt, in this modern interpretation, is possibly a small nod to the whiskey that came before.
I for one have been waiting a while for this whiskey, ever since I first knew about it's impending release, as I know the people at Echlinville are extremely passionate about what they produce and I am hopeful that this blend delivers as expected. Let's see.
Onto my notes:
Nose - Initially sweet with malt but this quickly gives way to fresh, crisp, grain spirit. Crisp green orchard fruits, lemon biscuit and light toffee. The sherry element is light but evident, with a little dark fruit gently wrapped around the fresher notes. A slight hint of old oak comes through and this brings a certain richness to the nose. You get the sense that the higher strength has benefitted this whiskey. A little stewed orange and light pepper, which feels like it has arrived courtesy of the casks. This displays a great balance and you nearly forget it's a blend you are nosing. All the while the spirit retains a nice intensity and with time the sherry has little more of a say with a dash of dried fruit.
Palate - Initially sweet with malt barley, and you get a little more of the older oak, before the crisp grains and gentle spice take over. Light citrus orange, lemon and green apples. Pepper and clove are the main protagonists when it comes to the spice and these are backed up with a hint of dry wood spice. The sherry element is harder to find, than on the nose, but appears towards the end in the merest of forms. The palate is all about the younger grain spirit, which is vibrant and challenging, in a good way. You need to take your time with this whiskey. Don't go rushing in to it as you would with a basic supermarket blend, allow it time to open and use a little water which will allow more of the sweeter malt to shine through.
Finish - Medium to short with green apple, sour green apple and a decent dry sweetness.
Overall I have to say I'm really impressed with this blend. The nose starts off all malt before moving into the lighter spirit notes of fresh fruit. The addition of the older, Oloroso finished, malt is a smart move as it brings enough richness to balance the whiskey out while maybe rounding off some of the slightly rougher notes, that may have been found prior to it's addition, but hey that's one of the reasons behind blending.
In my opinion the nose is, without doubt, superior to the palate but don't let that worry you, the palate holds up perfectly in it's own right.
What this presents is a whiskey that delivers a little more than you would expect from the majority of other blends. This isn't a whiskey to quaff at your leisure, but one that demands a little more time and attention. The higher strength is definitely a major player behind this, and I for one I'm happy it's at 46% as 40% might have flattened this whiskey.
What we have here is another fine example that Echlinville have arrived onto the local whiskey scene meaning serious business. They are determined to make their mark by producing whiskeys that pack serious flavour and I for one think they are getting it spot on.
I can't wait to see how things move along when their own spirit is ready for release, I think it could be something very special indeed.
Until next time,
Slainte.
SI
Towards the end of 2016 Midleton distillery, once again, flexed its muscles as we were all treated to another new release from those people behind Redbreast.
Over the last few years, compared to the other established Irish distilleries, namely Bushmills and Cooley, we have been treated to a number of new offerings coming out of Midleton distillery and, as I'm sure you may have noticed, the Redbreast name has been popping frequently up amongst these new expressions.
In 2013 we had the Redbreast 21 year old, in 2015 we had the limited edition Redbreast "Mano a Lámh" and earlier this year we had a Celtic Whiskey Shop exclusive in the form of a Redbreast 1999 single cask.
Each of these had their own unique selling point yet people may have thought the 21 year old to be a little bit too expensive for their wallets, the "Mano a Lámh" a little bit too limited to get hold of and the 1999 single cask a little bit too much of a combination of the previous two.
Moving forward to present day and now Redbreast have released a new, permanent expression that will be widely available to all.
Redbreast "Lustau" is a single pot still Irish whiskey that has been finished in hand selected, first-fill sherry butts, with the aim of celebrating the iconic sherry influence found throughout the Redbreast range.
Matured initially in a combination of ex-Bourbon and ex-Oloroso sherry casks, for about 9-12 years, Redbreast "Lustau" has been wholly finished for one year in sherry butts from the Spanish sherry house "Bodegas Lustau" and has come about a result of the long standing relationship between the bodega and the distillery in Midleton.
Redbreast "Lusatu" has been bottled at 46% ABV, without chill-filtration and at a recommended price point of £55.
Now while you may be thinking this is a little steep for a NAS whiskey, I'd like to firstly say that you may be able to get this a little cheaper if you shop around and, secondly, I'd like to reiterate the mention of an initial maturation of 9-12 years.
I feel that the only reason they are leaving an age statement off the bottle is that they may need to dip a little younger, or maybe even a little older, in the future, but what can be guaranteed is that the team behind the release will always aim to ensure that the quality shall remain the same.
Onto my notes:
Nose - Interesting mix of older sherry cask and fresh red fruits. The slightly older notes have a nice, deep, dried fruit complexity with Christmas cake and winter spices. The fresher notes, however, keep the heavier feel in check with touches of strawberry jam, and stewed strawberries with cream. I know the stewed element may not seem so fresh but when up against the likes of deep raisin you see where I'm coming from. The pot still distillate is evident and seems like it's gently wrapped in a red berry coating. The spice comes through showing that the spirit has not lost its way and the younger notes give the overall mouth-feel a nice edge to it. A little touch of oaky vanilla lies beneath the strawberries and cream element and I have to say it's all very inviting.
Palate - Again a fantastic mix with the fresher elements appearing first. Dark berry coulis and jam is followed by the rich fruit cake of the longer sherry maturation. Spicy black pepper, that's almost dry red chilli in nature, reminds you of the style of whiskey you're enjoying and it brings the whole glass together. Delicious.
Finish - As the alcohol dies down you are left with juicy red fruits and a lasting kick of dry oak spice. This all leaves you with the suggestion to pour another glass.
Overall this is another fantastic addition to the Redbreast range. It may not be as smooth as the 12 year old, but it's smooth enough. It may not be as heavy hitting as the "Mano a Lámh", but it hits all the right notes whilst keeping them restrained through careful finishing in a fresh sherry cask.
I can easily see this becoming a firm favourite within the Redbreast range.
As with the Powers "Three Swallow", it's great to see that Midleton are able to move effortlessly into the release of NAS expressions without reducing the quality we've grown to love. Long may these releases continue.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
For too long I had stood by and watched my beloved Bushmills become seemingly stuck in the mud while every other Irish whiskey company moved onto the tarmac and planted their respective accelerators, sending them off into the Irish whiskey future.
This was of course until 2014 when the magical news came through that the evil overlords Diageo had been ousted from their Northern Irish coastal base by the family owned company Jose Cuervo.
Now, say what you like about Diageo, but the truth is they seemed to have absolutely no interest in promoting the Bushmills brand in any shape or form. Yes they may have provided significant inward investment into the distillery, but, without any outward activity, the brand was always going to stagnate in a market that was growing faster than any other in the drinks industry.
The arrival of Jose Cuervo was therefore a breath of fresh air and they immediately set their stall out by stating that they understood "the importance of nurturing and protecting the heritage and quality of a brand" and that they were "strongly committed to doing exactly that with Bushmills".
At long last Bushmills was back, or at least it should've been.
At various tastings I heard rumours of new ideas, and possible single cask releases, but for the better part of 18 months Bushmills seemed to remain quiet.
This all changed in February of this year when, finally, we had a new release to celebrate.
This was of course the announcement of the new "Steamship" collection, a collection consisting of three permanent “special cask matured” variants plus regular limited edition releases.
The collection itself was inspired by the historical SS Bushmills steamship and celebrates its maiden voyage in the 1890s. After being commissioned, by then owner the Boyd Brothers, it sailed across the world, travelling as far as Philadelphia and Yokohama, returning with refilled casks of rum, fortfied wine and Bourbon.
The first release in this range was the Sherry Cask Reserve, a no-age-statement single malt Irish whiskey exclusively matured in Oloroso Sherry butts before being bottled at 40% ABV and put on sale at a price of £65.
Being a NAS whiskey, travel retail only and at a relatively high price point I had my concerns. This wasn't exactly what I had wanted to see but I suppose I should've been grateful there was any release at all. I only hoped the flavour, and style, of the whiskey would hold up to scrutiny.
Onto my notes:
Nose - Classic cut grass Bushmills nose. Mashed banana on brown toast, a little candied sweetness, cinnamon lozenges, alcohol soaked raisins and light Christmas cake. A lot more of the lighter and sweeter than the deeper and heavier, if you know what I mean. Pressed apple juice and gentle red fruits with hints of strawberry and black cherry. The lack of depth highlights the youthfulness and for being matured exclusively in Sherry casks it feels like the casks may have been a little "tired". Flavours are nice but in truth I was expecting a little more.
Palate - Shockingly poor mouth feel. Thin to the point of diluted. What flavours you do get are some spiced sherry fruits and a little sweet orchard fruits. This feels like a beginners whiskey. No depth, no balance, no age and no character. Really disappointing. This is screaming out for more maturation, and a higher strength, but unfortunately has neither.
Finish - Thankfully short, allowing me to find something better to drink.
Well that's completely taken the wind out of my sails. Any hope, and excitement, I had about the future of this fantastic distillery has been wiped out in one glass.
Taking over a distillery, of this magnitude, you need to hit the ground running, in a market that's growing so quickly. Instead they have released, in my opinion, overpriced nonsense that will only damage whatever reputation was left after the dark days of Diageo.
Looking forward things aren't much better with a Port Cask release on the horizon. Another 40% ABV, NAS bottling with another £30+ added onto the price.
What angers me even more is when you're at a Bushmills tasting, you get a sense of what whiskey they have under their control. When you speak with the long term staff, you get a feeling of the pride and ambition they have. When you taste certain other Irish whiskeys, that may be using Bushmills spirit, you see exactly what they could be capable of.
Instead we're left with sub-standard, travel retail only, releases that could damage Bushmills beyond repair.
I'd love to know where their aversion to bottling at a higher strength comes from? Bushmills is a beautifully light and delicate spirit, and that can come through delightfully in some releases, but I see no harm in giving the whole range a boost by simply upping the strength to maybe 46% ABV.
It's obvious that this Steamship Sherry Cask would've benefitted from it.
I will certainly sample the Port Cask release but there's no way I'll be buying a bottle and if the quality is similar to this release I may have to abandon sampling this Steamship collection altogether.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
Happy New Year!!
Back in August, last year, whisky based social media began to explode with a hashtag of #EastMeetsWest and the reason behind this was the long awaited new release from Bowmore, their Mizunara Cask Finish.
Now, NAS whiskies, with a fancy finish, are certainly nothing new, and you'd be right for questioning why such a whisky was getting so much hype, but it seems the unique selling point behind this whisky was the fact that it had been finished, for around 3 years, in Mizunara oak, which had been exported from Japan for the first time ever.
Mizunara casks, whilst widely used in Japan, have, until now, never seen the shores of the British Isles and I was certainly interested to see how this exotic wood would impact on a classic peated malt.
The whisky itself is made up of whiskies distilled in the 1990s which would mean that all whiskies involved in this bottling could maybe be between 15 and 25 years old. Given that this is a NAS whisky I would guess that we are looking at the lower end of this spectrum and Beam Suntory knew fine rightly that if they were to stick an age of 15yo on this, at the price it retailed at, then eyebrows would be raised even further than they already were.
Moving onto the price, a look around most websites shows that, when in stock, this retailed at around £650!!! Further investigation would suggest that the inevitable arrival of these bottles onto the auction scene has seen them reach around £1000 per sale.
ABSOLUTELY CRAZY!!!
The release was limited to 2000 bottles and the whisky itself was bottled at a cask strength of 53.9%.
Onto my notes:
Nose - Delicious. Soft gentle peat, as you would expect, with soft toasted oats and rich porridge. Ginger biscuits. The fruit borders on the tropical with cooked banana, watermelon and spiced orange. Nice note of vanilla chocolate which leans towards milk chocolate. There's a few dusty notes in here that give a sense of age. With water the wood becomes more prevalent and it is smoked in nature...naturally. It also becomes more vibrant with intense orange cream.
Palate - Bitter, acrid smoke arrival but this is not as unpleasant as it's sounds. Definite hint of salt. As the arrival eases the fruit starts to appear but it needs a little water. Just before the water was added there was a little dry wood and wood smoke. With water the bitterness is eased just enough to let the orange and smoke to come together wonderfully. The casks still have their say though with a lip smacking intensity.
Finish - Great length with the fruits becoming fresher and the mouthfeel becoming drier, think of an intense dry white wine. At the end the soft Bowmore peat comes back for one last hurrah and this entices you back in for a another sip.
Overall this is a great whisky and a great example of an excellent Islay distillery showing that you don't always have to be all Ardbeg with your peat to get the peat experience across to whisky drinkers. The Bowmore style is one that I am enjoying more and more each time I encounter it. This is no exception, the softness of the peat marries perfectly with the fruits and you do get a sense that the wood has brought this all together.
That said, I do have a few issues here. Firstly, I don't really get what this wood has added to what I've already tasted before from Bowmore. Maybe a few more tropical notes but nothing mind blowingly different.
Secondly, the price for this whisky is quite simply OUTRAGEOUS. In my opinion, those of you who paid the £650 when it was released are crazy, and those of you who are paying £1000 for this at auction need locked up for your own good. Yes this is a very tasty whisky but I'm going to make a suggestion that might send a few of you over the edge.
There is another Bowmore expression, that I have enjoyed in a similar sense, and it won't cost you the earth to buy. For me you can all keep your bottles of Mizunara Cask and I shall stick to the Bowmore "Small Batch Reserve".
At around £35 a bottle this won't break the bank and, for me, is just as tasty. Slightly different, for sure, but a clean, crisp, peated whisky that shows off a soft character whilst showing the classic Bowmore spirit off in a relatively natural form.
Well that wraps that up and lastly I would to say a special thanks to all who have read this blog over 2015. Unforeseen circumstances meant that my writing tailed off towards the end of 2015 but this is now 2016 and I shall be getting back into the swing of things with plenty of reviews coming up. Hopefully you shall enjoy reading them as much as I enjoy tasting them.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
Back in the December '14 / January '15 issue of Whisky Magazine "the battle of the century" was about to commence as we were advised of an upcoming, 8 round, "Heavyweight Championship Bout".
No, Whisky Magazine had not suddenly decided that a little coverage of pugilism was required to beef up their publication, but rather this was the beginning of a serious battle of two heavyweights of the whisky world.
Dave "The Rummager" Broom and Neil "Copper Dog" Ridley were being brought together to put their considerable whisky knowledge to the test and to battle each other in attempting to create the perfect blend.
Starting off with identical 20 litre, first fill, American oak casks, which would be toasted and seasoned with a high strength neutral spirit, the contestants would kick things off by seasoning the casks with whatever liquid they so desired before commencing their blend.
A few ground rules were also set out:
1 - The first fill of each cask would be 1 litre of Clynelish, from the Highland region.
2 - All regions of Scotland had to be incorporated and there was no order as to their use.
3 - Each bottle used in the blend had to be commercially available in the UK and cost under £50, apart from a wildcard bottle.
4 - At least one grain whisky was to be used with no restriction on it's origin.
5 - One wildcard was to be used. This could be a whisky from anywhere in the world but, again, had to be commercially available in the UK and cost no more than £150.
6 - The blend was to be under 50% ABV when finally bottled.
7 - A minimum of 15 litres of blend had to be prepared.
8 - There was no restriction as to the amount of each whisky category that could be used.
9 - The blend was to be completed by 1st September 2015.
As the contest got underway the first task, as mentioned earlier, was for the contestants to season their 20 litre casks. Dave Broom opted for a rum seasoning whilst Neil Ridley went for a homemade blend of sherries consisting of Oloroso, Manzanilla, PX and Palo Cortado.
Over the course of the next 8 / 9 months the readers followed along as Dave and Neil battled with the components of their respective blends. There were highs and lows as each blend ebbed and flowed with balance and flavour.
In the end the blends finally came together and what had been created were two blends packed full of diverse whiskies that were sure to challenge each other and fight for dominance in any drinkers glass.
Dave's blend included whiskies from Clynelish, Teaninich, Girvan, Cameronbridge, Greenore (Cooley), Caol Ila, Aultmore, Springbank, Kilkerran (Glengyle), Ardmore and Glenkinchie.
Neil, however, went for whiskies from Clynelish, Aberlour, Dailuaine, Nikka (Miyagikyo), Auchentoshan, Glenkinchie, Highland Park, Arran, Bowmore, Overeem, Hazelburn (Springbank) and Springbank itself.
With both blends completed a winner had to be found and what better way to decide on one than by getting the readers of Whisky Magazine to sample each blend and submit a vote for their favourite.
Not knowing how many samples would be available I stuck my name in to volunteer and luckily enough I was one of the many selected.
The samples arrived, courtesy of "Drinks by the Dram", and I set aside a night to really give these the serious tasting they deserved.
I'd like to point out that at the time of tasting, those of us, who had volunteered to sample the blends, had nothing but a "Blend A" and a "Blend B" in front of them. The tasting was therefore "blind" and truly fair.
However, at the time of writing, the results have now since been published and I have also shown which contestant blended which sample.
Onto my notes:
Blend A - 42.1% ABV - Now known to have been blended by Neil Ridley
This was marginally the darker of the two blends.
Nose - Green apple leading to waxy smoke. Becomes more sherried with some dried fruit and hints of tropical, over-ripe, pineapple. Pine wood / pine sap which then softens out with oak vanilla, orange marmalade and a little dustiness which hides just underneath. A little note of BBQ wood chips comes through and with time a mellow sense of oak effect appears.
Palate - Sour arrival but quite smooth. On second tasting there's a little more of a kick from the spirit with sweet malt, lemon drops, black pepper, vanilla and more wood sap. Juicy with apples and still get a sense of the dusty wood. In terms of smoke, there's just a little lurking in the background.
Finish - Quite good, a little bit of length with nice, dry wood spice. Stewed oranges and apple crumble. Quite lip smacking.
Blend B - 43.5% ABV - Now known to have been blended by Dave Broom
Nose - Candied fruits leading to light smoked bacon. Smoke continues with dried wood smoke. Quite spirity and a little bit hard to get into. Does begin to open up with a little orange and lemon. A little dried fruit and cinnamon. After a little longer a coastal note comes through with mineral peat. The longer this spent in the glass the more the peat came to the fore but all the time the nose retained it's spirit feel with a little added vibrancy from more lemon.
Palate - Youthful with orchard fruits and a little chilli heat. More orange but to be honest a little one dimensional. As with the nose the peat eventually comes along and is a nice change of direction. Combines with the zesty lemon to give a salty lemon note, think aftertaste of a tequila shot minus the overpowering nature of the tequila spirit.
Finish - Just ok and, in fairness, maybe a little too confused. Still not coming together and possibly the peat has cancelled the other elements out without being enough on it's own.
Overall this was every bit the "ding-dong" contest you would come to expect from an actual heavyweight boxing bout.
Blend A started off much the better with it's openness, and accessibility, being the highlight while it's counterpart remained very much closed up and difficult to get into. This despite Blend B showing off some nice notes of peat.
Moving onto the taste, Blend A carried through it's flavours from the nose nicely whereas Blend B, initially, went along a one dimensional route and, as I waited for each to develop in the glass, Blend A brought along mellow notes of sherry and wood sap whilst Blend B refused to budge.
It was towards the end that Blend B began it's fight back. As Blend A showed overall balance, and tailed off with some nice dusty wood, Blend B went a totally different direction offering up delicious peat which was mineral, coastal and earthy in nature.
With the finish, Blend A remained balanced, and well rounded to the end, but it has to be said it carried this off with little excitement throughout.
Blend B's last minute injection of peat was a nice surprise but was also to be it's ultimate downfall, as this led it's finish to feel somewhat confused.
With these final thoughts it was clear which blend had come out on top - Blend A.
Looking back now, I am drawn to the amount of grain used by Dave Broom combined with his choice of rum seasoning for his cask. In my humble opinion this appears to be where the problem of Blend B began. The use of 3 different grains possibly caused a lack of depth and allowed the Caol Ila element to dominate too easily. The use of rum also seems to have been an issue as Neil Ridley's choice of sherry was noticeable throughout his blend and seemed to bind it together with depth of flavour.
Whether I am even remotely close with this evaluation, or not, is somewhat irrelevant, as either way this has been a great experience which has taught me a thing or two about blends and how different flavours can work together, and also how they can not.
I have to take my last moments to congratulate Whisky Magazine on a quality feature. To have a running article that allows readers to follow along and ultimately take part in the finish is outstanding. It has been an absolute joy to be part of this experience and am already looking forward to next years contest.
If Neil Ridley is to come back, to defend his crown, then he will bring with him a far greater insight into what is required to make a blend work and I can only see the quality of the blends becoming better and better.
Similarly, Whisky Magazine will also be able to see what rules worked and what other rules they could maybe add in the future to allow for a greater test of blending skill.
Until next time,
Sláinte
SI
Towards the end of 2016 I was lucky enough to be invited to assist in judging a social media competition hosted by Powers Whiskey Northern Ireland. 
I have to say though that staying in this exquisite hotel was not just a perk that came with this competition, as anyone who partakes in the "Enthusiasts Package" shall also get the chance to indulge in this fine retreat.
We also saw many photos and artefacts that highlighted exactly how exclusive this brand once was.
For this tasting we were given a sample of the following:
There was, of course, one last treat in store for all involved as we were led the short walk from the Academy to the on site cooperage for a display from Midleton's fifth generation master cooper Ger Buckley and his apprentice Killian O'Mahony.
The journey home was without doubt a little more tiring than the trip down but again the conversation flowed about everything we had experienced over the previous 2 days at the Academy.
